I need a new digital camera!!!!?

Q. I really need a new digital camera! It needs to take good to decent photos and I would like it to be water proof. My budget is from 100-150 or a little higher depending on how much I like the camera. If you have a recommendation please leave a link to the camera below. I also wanted to ask what camera brand is better than the others I know Kodak is terrible then there's Sony, canon, Nikon which are the most familiar to me. I know there are the goods and the bads of each brand but in general which is the best for digital cameras. Thank you for your time best answer gets 10 points !!!!! �

A. Popular Photography's April 2013 edition covers waterproof cameras. They make the following suggestions:

Sony Cyber-shot TF1 - $198 (need reviews)
Fujifilm FinePix XP60 - $198
Pentax WG-3 GPS - $297
Nikon Coolpix AW110 - $347
Olympus Stylus TG-2 - $379
Panasonic Lumix TS5 - $399
http://www.dpreview.com/products/compare/side-by-side?products=sony_dsctf1&products=fujifilm_xp60&products=pentax_optiowg2gps&products=nikon_cpaw110&products=oly_tg2&products=panasonic_dmcts5
http://snapsort.com/compare/Fujifilm-FinePix-XP60-vs-Sony-Cyber-shot-DSC-TF1

Original Question

Best Digital Camera in 2013?

Q. I'm looking for a digital camera with the following:

* Awesome, detailed shots for both amateur and professional photography use
* Fast, extreme action modes with instant, non-blurry shots (no delay unless optional)
* Full 1080p Quality Video with Excellent Sound and no buzzing/noises
* Great Image Stabilization
* Lovely Zoom with little to no shaking and annoying sounds
* Ability to record beautifully in both low light and very bright settings
* Easiness to learn, maintain, and adjust to
* Durable and lasts for maybe 20 years

A lifetime warranty for a camera product would be nice, but I doubt it exists. I've looked at the newest Canon Rebel (zoom/sound issues), Nikon D7100 (seems too stiff in certain settings), some Panasonic models, etc. I am on a budget and want to record high quality music videos and shorts, and take fancy pictures with the camera I am seeking. I want to spend no more than maybe $650 on my ideal product. What are your suggestions and knowledge of expertise?

A. I have a dream that someday anyone who decides to take up photography as a hobby will first know and understand this: "It isn't the camera its the photographer."

A person with zero knowledge of light, composition and exposure will be unable to use any camera in any mode other than Program or Auto, allowing the camera to determine ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Even then, zero knowledge of just composition will usually produce mere snapshots.

In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really good pictures.

In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really bad pictures.

However, in those 42 years I have used a camera to make some really good pictures and some really bad pictures. The camera is just a tool and gets neither credit nor blame for my results good or bad. That's all on me.

Buy the least expensive DSLR you can find. Read & study the Owner's Manual. Then enroll in photography classes. Take notes. Practice. Make changes to aperture or shutter speed or ISO only when you understand why you're making them and what the results will be.

A 20 year old digital camera will be as useless as a 20 year old computer is today.

In many states a "lifetime" warranty is considered 7 years. Some high-end lenses (translate as a lens costing a few thousand dollars) have a 5 year warranty. Most DSLR bodies have a 1 year warranty.

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What should I do to get this kind of photos?

Q. Hi! I was wondering if you could give me some advice.

I wanted to buy a good camera this summer (I'm kind of tired of only taking photos from my iPhone!) and was wondering if someone could give me advice on what to buy,

I really love effects like this and was hoping to get a compact-as-possible camera that could achieve effects like this:

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT6Gl4nk3yJ1OkwivPFifmg_J_EleQLCnzmDyaRBLacu4RflZ4-7pGuQ_g0Aqrsl3RGpVle3ps3nJukOeixm1OCsN-aJDbGp5NHMNAL6nmDXQhsW3XetyRFrLbK7N4ylrTKakbDOVYkN0/s640/IMG_4630.JPG

http://24.media.tumblr.com/eff77703f16264c18bda35de45fb7fe9/
tumblr_mqfe9rqxOQ1qae1vwo1_1280.jpg

http://25.media.tumblr.com/f55ddd01b118cabf5fafb205db5e8b43/
tumblr_mqb7glNpmh1qae1vwo1_1280.jpg

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi77I_mY3TZVHgpV3WqT3pVNj8TntOSmBIVW4AO6COvqx8D977aTcU6FtwApC-yAjJZKLoZLJrHThq-qIBQ39sYP91vu4jyN-gs4VEJR0gwM2eR7gYcuXU9w4c407MwqoJBGjUfzFcaiK4/s640/IMG_5541.JPG

If you could give me some feedback, that'd be great!
Actually any kind of advice would be greatly appreciated haha
Thanks!
Do I need any kind of special filters?

A. I phones get old quickly. They aren't really cameras, they are phones with a crappy lens and a small sensor. Not the same animal at all.

As you want a small camera, I would suggest a bridge camera - one with a fixed lens that still has manual controls. A review of various bridge cameras appears here:

http://www.whatdigitalcamera.com/equipment/advice/501485/best-bridge-camera-of-2013.html

You may find that limiting quickly, in which case a full DSLR could do the job. With a DSLR you can change lenses on the body.

The thing that matters most is that camera has manual or semi manual controls: the aperture, shutter speed and ISO are controlled by YOU, not by the camera. Then YOU have to learn to use the camera properly. The camera takes pictures, YOU make them by understanding how to balance your exposure to the lighting situation you are in. Sometimes you have to compromise, and knowing what to keep in and what to give up is a huge part of photography. The camera cannot do that. It just records what you point it at, and at whatever settings you program in, or, gods forbid, what it thinks best on Auto. It is not the camera, it is the photographer!

Two of the samples you posted had some issues relating to exposure, although the Golden Gate Bridge was pretty close. The feet shot was interesting, but the reflection on the floor was so blown out that it completely ruined the shot. The christmas stocking shot was both under and overexposed simultaneously and the coffee shot has composition problems - what is the thing on the lower edge? Exposure was dead on though.

All need a clean up in photoshop (or similar) to get rid of the grey mud over the image. The white and black points need to be set, which will eliminate the grey cast over the images. This is a separate issue from the camera - digital images generally need some post processing work to correctly set the density/contrast.

Whatever camera you end up choosing, learn to use it on fully manual.

Edit: You could definitely use a circular polarizer. Other than that, no filters are needed unless you're old school and want a UV for your lens as a protector. I use one, LOTS of people don't as it can degrade image quality. I feel it's a fair trade.

Original Question

Best Digital Camera in 2013?

Q. I'm looking for a digital camera with the following:

* Awesome, detailed shots for both amateur and professional photography use
* Fast, extreme action modes with instant, non-blurry shots (no delay unless optional)
* Full 1080p Quality Video with Excellent Sound and no buzzing/noises
* Great Image Stabilization
* Lovely Zoom with little to no shaking and annoying sounds
* Ability to record beautifully in both low light and very bright settings
* Easiness to learn, maintain, and adjust to
* Durable and lasts for maybe 20 years

A lifetime warranty for a camera product would be nice, but I doubt it exists. I've looked at the newest Canon Rebel (zoom/sound issues), Nikon D7100 (seems too stiff in certain settings), some Panasonic models, etc. I am on a budget and want to record high quality music videos and shorts, and take fancy pictures with the camera I am seeking. I want to spend no more than maybe $650 on my ideal product. What are your suggestions and knowledge of expertise?

A. I have a dream that someday anyone who decides to take up photography as a hobby will first know and understand this: "It isn't the camera its the photographer."

A person with zero knowledge of light, composition and exposure will be unable to use any camera in any mode other than Program or Auto, allowing the camera to determine ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Even then, zero knowledge of just composition will usually produce mere snapshots.

In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really good pictures.

In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really bad pictures.

However, in those 42 years I have used a camera to make some really good pictures and some really bad pictures. The camera is just a tool and gets neither credit nor blame for my results good or bad. That's all on me.

Buy the least expensive DSLR you can find. Read & study the Owner's Manual. Then enroll in photography classes. Take notes. Practice. Make changes to aperture or shutter speed or ISO only when you understand why you're making them and what the results will be.

A 20 year old digital camera will be as useless as a 20 year old computer is today.

In many states a "lifetime" warranty is considered 7 years. Some high-end lenses (translate as a lens costing a few thousand dollars) have a 5 year warranty. Most DSLR bodies have a 1 year warranty.

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What is the best time of the year in 2013 to buy a digital camera?

Q. I figured before Christmas of 2012 would be a bad time to buy one, but what would be the best time of 2013 to buy one, taking product cycles into consideration? I don't know too much about that, really. Thanks for any input!

A. The best time to buy a camera is now.

If you wait until tomorrow when the prices may have dropped you have wasted another day not having a camera. Because tomorrow arrives and tomorrow they may be cheaper... another day of your life gone.

Original Question

Is Nikon d40 still a good camera in 2013?

Q. Found a used Nikon d40 I might buy. Not sure about a camera with fewer megapixels than my phone(6.1). Anyone with experience with this camera let me know how well the pictures turn out? How large can I enlarge a photo before it starts to look pixelated? I currently use a film slr (k1000) and a digital bridge camera(16.1 mp fujifilm) and just want to be sure I'm not taking a step back.

A. Eric, in my opinion you should skip the ancient, outdated Nikon D40. Yes it was a good camera in its day buts its a 7 yr. old model and DSLR technology has passed it by.

I suggest considering the Pentax K-30 DSLR since it can use any lenses you have for your Pentax K1000. Pentax introduced the "K" lenses mount on your K1000 in 1975 and its still used today on their DSLR cameras.

Here is a review: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/pentax-k30/pentax-k30A.HTM

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Digital Camera for wildlife photography help?

Q. I am planing a couple trips in the next year. First trip is to go up to Alaska or Canada and I want to try and get some nice Polar Bear and Musk Oxen shots. Then I am going to be going out to Yellowstone to try and photograph wolves and finally I will be taking a trip to Australia and New Zealand and am hoping to get some great landscape and animal shots. But now I have to figure out what is going to be the best camera for me to get. I have a budget of around $3500.

Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.

I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.

A. You might get to see these animals, but don't get your hopes up too high. The Nikon D7100 with 18-105mm could be a good choice of camera for most of your shots. A super duper great telephoto to get the kind of shots you are dreaming of will blow your budget. For less ambitious but pretty good shots you could get the Nikon 70-300mm AF-S VR (the good 70-300, not the cheapo). Forget about a 2X teleconverter. The 70-300mm lacks a tripod collar, and it will be front heavy. You will want to bring a tripod. You need to think about what day pack you will carry it in, as the tripod must fit. There are some decent travel tripods. However, the light duty ballhead on some of these may be barely adequate with the 70-300mm. You need to assemble something with a good medium duty 3 way pan head, like maybe the Manfrotto 804RC2 or the Induro PHT2. BTW, if you want to point a panhead higher than about 30 degrees, the trick is to put the quick release plate on backwards.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.

Original Question

XOTICPC Shipping costs and product price.?

Q. $3,761.00 for:
MSI GT70 0NE-609US Dragon Edition
- FREE!!! � U.S. UPS GROUND SHIPPING (Use Coupon Code "FREESHIP" in Checkout) [U.S. Lower 48 ONLY / Restrictions Apply]
- FREE - MSI DOGTAG & BACKPACK + SteelSeries Gaming Headset - Included with your purchase of the MSI GT70 0NE-609US Dragon Edition!
- 17.3" FHD 16:9 "Matte Type" Super Clear Ultra Bright LED Matte Screen (1920x1080) (SKU - X1R553)
- Standard Dead Pixel Policy
- XOTIC PC Professional Monitor Color Calibration (Will add to Production Time) (Operating System is required) (XPC Service)
- 3rd Generation Intel® Ivy Bridge Core� i7-3630QM (2.4GHz - 3.4GHz, 6MB Intel® Smart Cache, 45W Max TDP) (SKU � X2X317)
- Stock OEM Thermal Compound ( IC Diamond Thermal Compound - CPU + GPU Provided FREE with Processor Upgrade!)
- nVidia GeForce GTX 680M 4,096MB PCI-Express GDDR5 DX11 w/ Optimus� Technology (SKU - X3R708)
- COPPER COOLING UPGRADE - Extra Cooling Copper Heatsinks Applied to the Heatsink/Heatpipes (XPC Service)
- No Video Adapter
- No External Mobile Display
- 32GB DDR3 1600MHz [SKU-844PX] (Kingston HyperX CL9 Dual Channel Memory (4x8GB SODIMMS))
- Standard Laptop Finish - Dragon Edition Red
- Standard White Logo Backlight
- 128GB Solid State Drive (Super RAID) mSATA - [ In Primary Hard Drive Bay ]
- 128GB Solid State Drive (Super RAID) mSATA - [ In Primary Hard Drive Bay ]
- 750GB 7200RPM 16MB Cache Buffer (Serial-ATA II 3GB/s) (SKU - X5R303)
- Raid 0 Stripe Enabled (Requires 2 or 3 Hard Drives. Combines Hard Drives for performance)
- 6X Blu-Ray Writer/Reader + 8X DVDRW/CDRW Super Multi Combo Drive (SKU - X7R551)
- No Extra Optical Bay Hard Drive Caddy
- No Back Up Hard Drive
- NO External USB Optical Drive
- Internal 7-in-1 Card Reader (MS/MS Pro/MS Duo/MS Pro Duo/SD/Mini-SD/MMC/RS)
- No Back Up Software
- Bluetooth Included *With select wireless cards only* (See �Wireless Network� Section Below)
- Bigfoot Networks Killer� Wireless-N 1202 + Bluetooth 4.0 (Dual Band) (SKU � X8R117)
- No Network Accessory
- Integrated Digital Video Camera
- No TV Tuner
- Sound Blaster Compatible 3D Audio - Included
- No Carrying Case
- Smart Li-ion Battery (9-Cell)
- No Car Adapter
- No Spare AC Adapter
- No Dock/Hub/Adapter
- No Fingerprint Reader
- No Headset
- No External Keyboard
- Stock MSI SteelSeries� Chiclet Backlit Keyboard
- Cyborg R.A.T. 9 Gaming Mouse-
- Full Size Black Aluminum Notebook Cooler - Dual Fans - USB Powered (For up to 17" Laptops)
- YES - Redline Boost� Overclock My System (Operating System Required) (XPC Service)
- Yes, Redline Boost My Operating System (Operating System Required) (XPC Service)
- WINDOWS 8 - 64-Bit (Pre-Installed + Drivers & Utilities Disk)
- Clean Windows Installation (Install drivers only - no bloatwares) (For factory installed OS only, not required if OS upgrade is selected) (XPC Service)
- Yes, please create manufacturer factory backup recovery Install 32GB USB Drive for Windows 8
- None
- 2013 PC Security Essentials Software (Not Installed) (Trend Micro Titanium Antivirus + Security (2 Year Subscription) & Zemana AntiLogger)
- No Office Software
- No Software Bundle
- 2 Year MSI US/Canada Parts & Labor 1 Year Global Warranty w/ Lifetime Tech Support
+ 1 Year Accidental Damage Warranty (Requires Registration within 30 Days from Ship Date) (SKU - M9R301)
- Yes, I would like XOTIC PC�s White Glove Premium Packaging (XPC Service)
- No Outside of US Shipping Coverage
- Rush Build & Skinning (Reduces Build Time + Skinning Time After Order Is Successfully Processed) (Subject to Parts Availability + Notebook Skin Required) (XPC Service)
- No Xotic PC Gear.

Transport excluded , I have no idea about that , anyone had any experience with exoticpc ?

A. Way overpriced laptop, get a 1500 laptop and a 1500 pc. both will be better than this laptop.

a laptop like the Sony vaio s15 with full hd screen (full ips panel).
a computer with an i5 3350p and a HD7970 is way faster than that laptop and way cheaper. also better screen.

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What are some really cheap HD cameras under 200$?

Q.

A. The best camera under $200 is currently the Nikon P310.

Well, maybe under $200. Nikon had a $100 instant rebate that expired on Mar 30, 2013. Check back periodically to see if that rebate is extended or not. Otherwise, you may be spending about $50 more, which is still a good deal.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/842326-REG/Nikon_P310B_Coolpix_P300_Digital_Camera.html

This camera normally sells for $300+, but it has just been discontinued for it's replacement, the P330. Since this is an annual (or semi-annual) event with most camera manufacturers (of compact cameras), you can often pick up an outstanding camera at a low price when they first become discontinued.

However, when this happens you have to act farily quickly as the stock is limited to what is on the dealer's shelves.

Why do I like the P310?

First, it has manual exposure controls (prorgam, shutter/aperture priority, manual), This gives you maximum flexibility in composing your photos.

Second, it has a fast f/1.8 lens, which rivals even the better grade DSLR lenses. What does this mean? Superior low-light performance, as the camera will gather 2 to 4 times more light than the typical compact camera.

It also does up to 1920x1080p @ 30fps "full" HD with stereo audio. But I am not much into video so that is not something I often use. If I want to do video, I have a camcorder for that.

And I own this camera, so it is not something I would recommend without having some experience with it. While the zoom range of this camera is less than those ridiculously high-powered zooms on bridge cameras, the lens on the P310 is vastly superior to those cameras. So while you won't be able to take a photo of a bird from a mile away, you will be able to take better photos within the range of the P310's zoom.

Original Question

Whats a good digital camera?

Q. I'm looking for a new camera that's around $100 or $120 I know that's not a lot but does anyone know a really nice digital camera please...?

A. Choose any Canon, Nikon, Samsung, Pentax, Panasonic or Sony. All 2012 and 2013 digital camera models are very powerful. Go to a store and put your hands on different cameras. See which cameras are within your budget and feel good. Any camera you buy will not disappoint you as long as you use it in good light. Most under $150 cameras will not work well in shooting fast moving objects indoor or taking photos in dull light. For that you will need to spend more than $500.
Now besides the camera, you can learn some basic photography lessons and get the most out of your powerful camera. Search the Internet and learn about Exposure Compensation, Multiple shots (fps), Timer, Bracketing, proper use of flash. Also use tripod and take photos with low ISO for stationary objects or for landscapes.
If you train yourself, any camera will help you get nice photos in most situations.
Good luck.

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Is Nikon d40 still a good camera in 2013?

Q. Found a used Nikon d40 I might buy. Not sure about a camera with fewer megapixels than my phone(6.1). Anyone with experience with this camera let me know how well the pictures turn out? How large can I enlarge a photo before it starts to look pixelated? I currently use a film slr (k1000) and a digital bridge camera(16.1 mp fujifilm) and just want to be sure I'm not taking a step back.

A. Eric, in my opinion you should skip the ancient, outdated Nikon D40. Yes it was a good camera in its day buts its a 7 yr. old model and DSLR technology has passed it by.

I suggest considering the Pentax K-30 DSLR since it can use any lenses you have for your Pentax K1000. Pentax introduced the "K" lenses mount on your K1000 in 1975 and its still used today on their DSLR cameras.

Here is a review: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/pentax-k30/pentax-k30A.HTM

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How long before this camera is considered obsolete?

Q. My son is a high school senior. Next year he wants to go to community college and live at home (at least that is reasonably affordable) instead of going away to school. He wants to take an expensive major however. Video production. We have been able to save about $5,000 towards his education. We are not wealthy people. The rest will have to come from loans and maybe a grant or scholarship.
We are looking at some "entry level" pro cameras in the $1500-1800 range. That's about 1/3 of our savings for his education.
Models include these:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/518555-REG/Sony_HVRHD1000U_HVR_HD1000U_Digital_High_Definition.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/745707-REG/Sony_HXR_MC2000U_HXR_MC2000U_Shoulder_Mount_AVCHD.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/878341-REG/Panasonic_hmc40kit_AG_HMC40_AVCCAM_HD_Camcorder.html
and
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/749467-REG/Canon_4922B002_XA10_HD_Professional_Camcorder.html

My concern is he starts September 2013 so these products may not even be available by then or others will be available. We hope he graduates May 2015. He tells us when he graduates he will maybe find a freelance job or shoot local cable news, build up some experience, maybe after 2 years go for a B.A. at least part time.
Is anything we buy him in 2013 (summer) going to be any use to him as a working professional in 2015 (summer)? So let's say you are a class of 2012 graduate with an AAS in video production. The camera you purchased in the summer of 2010 when you first started, do you still use it professionally? Can you make anything doing freelance news videos, PR videos or local account commercials with this equipment?
We're going to do everything we can to help him. No doubt he will still be living at home in the summer of 2015. By then he's going to have a student loan to pay off. We have a 2005 Hyundai Accent that we are going to give him for college. I hope that thing still runs when it is 10 years old and he isn't making car payments on top of that. The thing has 120,000 miles on it but runs really well. I just fear when he graduates he's going to be in deep debt and have limited employment. I may be wrong. What do you think? Thanks.

A. Hi "Upwardly Mobile":

Fellow Contributor "L" covered most of the bases quite well, but the only point he didn't underscore is that MOST good video & film production programs at community colleges HAVE the cameras, lights, mikes, tripods, and other gear that the students will learn on & use.

When I went to a local (but nationally prominent) university with a Broadcast/Film Dept., portable video was still fairly new, but all the film cameras, tripods, & light kits were supplied by the Department for students to "check out" as-needed for class projects.

And most video production students start out with Studio Production techniques (where it's easier for groups to learn 3-point lighting, camera setup & tripod/dolly operation, shot composition, audio techniques & mixing, etc.). No need for portable field gear there.

For field production & Electronic News Gathering, a good college will have a fair number of camcorders for students to use & check out (if needed for outside-of-class projects).

The same is true for Editing Software & computer workstations. Some college programs might be economizing and making students supply their own laptops for this, but all the major software companies offer Academic Editions of their normally-expensive edit suites at discounted prices. And of course, nowadays, apps like iMovie (Mac) and Movie Maker (PC) come "free" as part of the operating system and can accomplish what older (and expensive) software used to do, as far as basic editing.

As "L" mentioned, do a bit of "homework" yourself by contacting the community college's department head & instructors for your son's chosen major. Tour the facilities (studio and edit suites) and ask about the "equipment room" for student project gear. See what textbooks (a major expense) are required, and whether computer/laptop & software expense will be part of what's expected of your son. Only if there's little-or-no camcorder gear (or no hands-on studio cameras) would I recommend buying anything like the models from B+H that you listed.

Almost every cable TV & freelance video job I've had over the past 30 years has "supplied" (rented or company-owned) the cameras & grip gear I needed. I bring my own gear only when it's a "favor" or when what I have is better-suited to the task, or they want a "director with gear". My point being, your son doesn't need to own =any= camera gear to make a living freelancing. A good camera operator can stay busy in almost any part of the country, with just his/her skills. (Same for sound mixers & boom/wireless mike operators.)

hope this helps, and hope it saves you some money,
--Dennis C.
 

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Whats a good digital camera?

Q. I'm looking for a new camera that's around $100 or $120 I know that's not a lot but does anyone know a really nice digital camera please...?

A. Choose any Canon, Nikon, Samsung, Pentax, Panasonic or Sony. All 2012 and 2013 digital camera models are very powerful. Go to a store and put your hands on different cameras. See which cameras are within your budget and feel good. Any camera you buy will not disappoint you as long as you use it in good light. Most under $150 cameras will not work well in shooting fast moving objects indoor or taking photos in dull light. For that you will need to spend more than $500.
Now besides the camera, you can learn some basic photography lessons and get the most out of your powerful camera. Search the Internet and learn about Exposure Compensation, Multiple shots (fps), Timer, Bracketing, proper use of flash. Also use tripod and take photos with low ISO for stationary objects or for landscapes.
If you train yourself, any camera will help you get nice photos in most situations.
Good luck.

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camera package advice?

Q. So im looking at packages such as this one: http://www.amazon.com/T3i-75-300mm-Telephoto-Accessory-Kit/dp/B005KUGXJW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1368422743&sr=8-11&keywords=canon+rebel+t3i+packages
does this look like a good deal? do you know of any packages that come with canon brand accessories? Im looking for stuff under 750$ and want more lenses, filters, a memory card, and possibly a remote. thanks

A. http://www.amazon.com/T3i-75-300mm-Telephoto-Accessory-Kit/dp/B005KUGXJW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1368422743&sr=8-11&keywords=canon+rebel+t3i+packages

This package isn't worth the money. A couple of flimsy tripods I wouldn't trust using with a point & shoot compact digital camera much less a DSLR. Canon's worst lens ever, the 75-300mm. A couple of cheap image degrading screw in attachments. Forget about this so-called deal.

Look at B&H for better deals. B&H has the T3i w/18-55mm zoom lens for $599.00 after a $50.00 'Instant Savings' that ends June 1, 2013. B&H also has a two lens kit - T3i w/18-55mm zoom and 55-250mm zoom - for $599.00 after a $200.00 'Instant Savings' that ends June 8, 2013.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com Just do a search for canon t3i and then make your decision as to which deal is best for you.

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What did God mean in reference to men having visions and young men having dreams?

Q. Nightmare October 27, 2013

First off, unlike most of you I remember every dream I've ever had in my life, have 100% total recall...
This is what I dreamed about last night...

In-fact, I dream every night unlike most thus, remember every aspect down to the smallest detail....

In this nightmare last night I was walking around this huge facility could see countless cameras all over the place... I remember it all, especially a quick visit to a room where I saw these small shiny steel guillotines which numbered six...

Note: These inventions of mass death were hidden behind two large steel doors...

Also note: there was a digital sign directly about these doors which read: "Restricted Area 21"


Moments later I was engaged in some backbreaking work involving a shovel and dirt mixed with mud ... It was hot enough to curse that hellish sun shining down from high above me...
An elderly man (70s?) next to me was struggling to finish his own large deep hole when he spoke something out loudly which shocked the rest of what were obviously prisoners in this prison?

I recall him saying something about choices that we all must make in this short tragic life, and things that are pushed on us against our will or ones religious beliefs exempting the religion of Islam...

Found it kinda strange for this old man kept repeating the same thing over and over again" Freedom once it's gone it's gone forever" I can't believe this is the American I grew up in" I have lived too long, everyone i ever knew is now long dead and gone" I have no wish to continue, look at us, we labor in vain with no reward, there's no longer a purpose to our lives but, to serve those evil rich authoritarian scumbags...

At this point somebody turned to that red faced angry old man and told him to shut the F- up for speaking of such things...

He shouted back NO! I can no longer continue I just don't have the strength." He turned to me, I could see tears in his eyes and a kinda sadness/intense grief, most if not all people usually display at funerals and such...

He shouted out once again even louder! No, I don't want to live another moment in this living hell" "I'm going to my father's kingdom soon this I say to you with all certainty" he was sprouting off all kinds of religious stuff about God and Country just before collapsing to the ground obviously, a victim of heat stroke or something???

I remember hearing these words coming from behind me "don't touch that piece of meat, carry on with your work before you join him" moments later several men dressed in black uniforms some looked a bit Chinese? Took hold of this lifeless corpse? He may have just fainted from that extreme heat and hard labor? No, it didn't matter to these wicked monsters for they picked him up from that ground whom was obviously dead for sure after a quick examination? (one of these guys kicked the old man's limp body repeatedly so hard that I could hear the old man's brittle bones cracking under the blunt force of every kick)

Thus, these men handled him so abruptly that a small book was jostled loose from a now torn shirt pocket... Obviously no one but me noticed what had fallen to the ground... As they carried the body of this poor soul away, I maneuvered myself closer to that small book expecting it to be an illegal copy of a Bible...???

However, I was shocked to see that it was nothing to do with religion and everything to do with a time-tested document proclaiming a nation's sovereignty...
The front cover had these words largely printed on it, "Declaration of Independence" Obviously in a miniaturized format...

First few pages display the "Bill of Rights" followed by a short version of the "Constitution..." I remember feeling great stress reading it that night by the moonlight coming from a very small window that had a crosshatch of wire embedded in it... Page after page tears came forth from my eyes a then silently repeating this now dead old man's own words? "How oh how dear Lord could this had happen to us, why did we not see this coming???

This nightmare changes many times now, colors and imagery become distorted sometimes I'm driving somewhere or nowhere for that matter??? Moments later, i find myself inside a high-rise building during a frightening earthquake, then moments later in I'm visiting a grave of someone that I once knew and loved...

What's your input, is this what awaits us or our children if things remain the same? Is this truly the future we shall all soon face if we allow these corrupt lawless tyrants in DC to take over every aspect of our lives thus far (forcing parents to inoculate their children with dangerous genetically modified vaccines?) Because it's the law???

Input need lots of input

A. it means that old people are smart and young people are wishful
and nobody's going to read all of that

Original Question

Which camera should I buy?

Q. I need a really good camera in april (2013), I'm thinking of buying a nikon 1 J1 but I'm not sure, the nikon 1 J2 is too expensive if you look at the differences with the J1 . Shoul I buy a nikon 1 J1? Or is there a better camera in the market which is cheaper or around the same price? It must be digital and have a (not too) big lens. thanks!

A. Look at the Nikon V1. They are ridiculously low priced right now ($299) while stock is left or until Dec 30. If you wait until April 2013, this deal (and all remaining V1s) will likely be gone.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/823590-REG/Nikon_27504_Nikon_1_V1_Mirrorless.html

The original MSRP of $899 for the V1 was way too overpriced, but at $299, it is very attractive.

The V1 is an upscale version of the J1, and may or may not be to your liking, but at the price they are selling for, it is an easy decision. The main differences are that the V1 has an electronic viewfinder, and lacks an internal flash, when compared to the J1. It is also slightly larger and heavier, as it has a larger battery, giving about 25% more capacity. The V1 also has both electronic and manual shutters, whereas the J1 only has an electronic shutter.

Oddly enough, the V1 is priced about $100 less than the least expensive J1 that I can find, but if you buy the optional flash for the V1, it will be about $30 more than the J1.

Some reviews have the J1 with a slightly better image than the V1. I am highly skeptical about that as they are essentially the same camera; same sensor, and same digital processor, same lenses.

The only thing I can fathom is that the J1 has a different set of presets than the V1 (which is the old Canon trick), and/or not every reviewer necessarily knows what they are doing anyway.

There is one under Awboater's Christmas tree.

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Getting all of my film speed with Rodinal?

Q. I've been playing around with different films and developers and combinations for the past couple of months. I want to branch out from HC-110 and see what else is out there, and what else I like.

I've read a lot about Rodinal not delivering full film speed, and I pretty sure that's what I'm encountering here. It seems like whenever I soup in Rodinal at the standard times given on the Massive Dev Chart (a good place to start, at least), the negatives come out around 2-3 stops dark. I don't care so much for test rolls, but I shot a portrait session with medium format PanF+, developed in Rodinal, and lost at least 4 or 5 frames that could have been great. They were just too thin to recover.

Anyone have any advice here? I just want my exposures to come out the way they would if I was using HC-110. I'm not underexposing in camera, it's definitely something to do with the developer. I'm using 1:50 so far, and souping as documented on my little blog I use to keep track of my experiments:

http://filmsanddevelopers.blogspot.com/2013/05/adox-adonal-rodinal-and-ilford-panf.html
http://filmsanddevelopers.blogspot.com/2013/04/adox-adonal-rodinal-and-ilford-delta-100.html
I'm sorry, let me clarify: The negatives are thin. The images themselves (after being scanned or printed) are dark. Meaning, underexposed. I didn't state that very well.

Thanks for the info though, I'll run some more tests.

A. Like more density on the negatives you work with do you?

A photographer in Alaska used black and white film which he exposed to have a minimum of emulsion left on the film back after developing.

If it was my roll of film, I'd have had a heart attack and died on the spot! And if I had survived that I would have had my light meters. handheld and built into cameras, looked at plus the shutter speeds and lens apertures and then the film developers!

But back to all seriousness, this fella, lets call him Bill, also modified his print processing procedure, buying and using a digital enlarger timer and with closing the enlarger lens down, printed some of the most grain free images with great tonal scale! Both pics taken out of doors and pics taken indoors in low light conditions

Most lab rats would close their enlarger lenses down a stop or two and use seconds to expose proof sheets and prints.
This fella closed the lens down a few stops more and used tenths and hundredths of seconds as exposure times!

Plus had many more pic taking opportunities than the rest of us using Kodak Tri-X films or Illford's similar b&w product, pushing films to a paltry asa 800, 1200 or 1600 and exposing films for shadow detail.

This I beleive is where Rodinal and other developers used for developing b&w films rated to higher asa's got their so called bad reputations. The photographers could not or did not know how to modify their print processing procedure to take advantage of ther film developers ability to make such delicate looking negatives and the higher quality grain free images that resulted.

Original Question

Where can you get cheap polaroid cameras in australia?

Q. Does anyone know?

A. Why do you want 1950's technology?. Polaroids stink, I sold this cameras when they were first introduced and it went like this: Sell 3 cameras and two are returned. The third is/was up in the attic just waiting for gullible people to come along and think Polaroid instant print is the cat's meow. Well I guess 2013 is the year of gullible people. PLEASE don't waste your money! Two dollars a print equals 16 dollars expensive. BUT what if all 8 prints do not come out? The entire 8 prints never came out when I sold the cameras. I can't figure where all the Polaroid cameras are coming from. Polaroid must have stock piled them and then sold them this year. Stick to regular 4x6 prints priced at (here in the USA) from 13 cents to 20 cents a piece. Plus your can get reprints from the digtal file. Never mind that Polaroid prints fade in a few years while digital prints last a least one lifetime, more if stored in an album. Please don't buy.

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