Sabtu, 15 Februari 2014

Underwater wireless live streaming Camera?

Q. So I am building an underwater ROV and my team needs a camera to mount onto our robot. It needs to be water proof, but if you have to buy a separate box it might be okay. It should be wireless, but we could run a Ethernet cable if we have to. And of course it needs to be able to live stream onto a laptop on the surface of the water.

I have looked into using a Go Pro, but I am unsure of what model to get and Go Pros seem a little pricey, so cheaper options may be better.

Does anyone have any ideas on what i can use? If i use a Go Pro i need to know which model is best, but I would like cheaper options if they exist. Thank You

A. Underwater wifi is relatively new and not "readily" available.
http://nypost.com/2013/10/17/yes-underwater-wi-fi-is-a-thing/
at least, not from regular stores. If you are depending on the GoPro wireless connectivity to do what you want, I would bet against it - at least for now. That means some sort of tethered version. As far as I know, there is no wired, direct, "streaming" capability that will do what you want. Remember, the GoPro is a camera/camcorder and designed to capture video locally to a memory card.

Wireless communication is one thing - wireless video is a whole different animal (bandwidth issues in the aquatic/marine environment).

And if you are using a robotic craft, I am guessing the ROV is going to be more than 100 feet away which means if on land, would be on the edge of wifi's reach - underwater, even more so. The GoPros included waterproof housing is rated to only 40 meters (~130 feet).

A camera-only (no local recording), with a cable, solution may be a more do-able option. Since we don't know how deep the camera needs to go and we don't know how far away the camera will be (it could be 5 feet deep but 300 feet away) it is impossible to actually make a recommendation. This shallow, but far away is different than 300 feet deep because of the pressure exerted at that depth.

Your solution may be as simple as
http://www.amazon.com/OceanDrop-Underwater-Training-Observation-Inspection/dp/B007EFG3N2
which is even more than the GoPro. This is an underwater wired camera designed to do what you want. Similar to a security camera, it has a single cable that includes connections for power and the video feed. The power is supplied on the computer side of the cable - the camera does not carry local power. The camera does not store video locally, but sends the video over the wire to an analog/digital converter. This can be a standalone box like those from Blackmagic Design, Roxio, Elgato, Thompson/Grass Valley/Canopus or a card fitted to the computer.

And keep in mind that at about 40ft-50ft and deeper, you will likely need to add light. Underwater lighting can be pricey...


Where can you get cheap polaroid cameras in australia?
Q. Does anyone know?

A. Why do you want 1950's technology?. Polaroids stink, I sold this cameras when they were first introduced and it went like this: Sell 3 cameras and two are returned. The third is/was up in the attic just waiting for gullible people to come along and think Polaroid instant print is the cat's meow. Well I guess 2013 is the year of gullible people. PLEASE don't waste your money! Two dollars a print equals 16 dollars expensive. BUT what if all 8 prints do not come out? The entire 8 prints never came out when I sold the cameras. I can't figure where all the Polaroid cameras are coming from. Polaroid must have stock piled them and then sold them this year. Stick to regular 4x6 prints priced at (here in the USA) from 13 cents to 20 cents a piece. Plus your can get reprints from the digtal file. Never mind that Polaroid prints fade in a few years while digital prints last a least one lifetime, more if stored in an album. Please don't buy.





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Jumat, 14 Februari 2014

What is a good camera for a beginning photographer? With a $50-$150 price range?

Q. I'm a college freshmen and photography is my life. I havent taken 1 photography class yet, but will in January 2013. I was looking for a good camera, not to cheap and not to expensive, because I don't like taking pictures with my iPod. Anyone have information, please comment below. thanks!

A. If by photography, you mean taking complete control of the camera, choosing the lens aperture, shutter speed and lens, then the camera that falls into your budget, would be a good used 35 mm SLR. You can find them on craigslist in a city near you for under $100. Nikon and Canon 35 mm SLR cameras are most plentiful and account for over 60% of all dSLR's sold.

With a budget of $50-$150, you cannot find any dSLR camera and digital P&S cameras start at $125.

Here is a link that might help you find a $125-$150

http://www.dpreview.com/products/cameras


Why is the Leica M8 so good?
Q. Why is the Leica M8 good what makes it Unique from the Dslr's?

A. Well, in a lot of ways, in 2013, the Leica M8 is actually not so good by current standards. It's a crop sensor digital camera with, what is now considered, poor high ISO noise redux. The M9 is another story however.

The reason the M8 used to be considered a great digital camera and still is if you're on a budget, is that it is a rangefinder camera. That in itself makes it unique from DSLR's because it is simply not a Single Lens Reflex camera.

If you want to study up on the differences between rangefinders and SLR's, there are hundreds of in-depth discussions all over the internet. Essentially it boils down to rangefinders being smaller, quieter, better at manual focusing in low light and due to the lack of a flipping mirror, viewing is more of the moment as well as handheld slow shutter speeds more free of vibration. The problem is that there are limitations to composition and use of macro and longer telephoto lenses as well as zoom lenses with rangefinders. Also, some folks just don't like focusing through them.

Whats-more, Leica build quality far exceeds those of most popular manufacturers. They hand-assemble their camera and lenses with higher quality materials and more tightly fitting parts. This results in cameras and lenses that feel very enjoyable to use but also that last through extreme abuse and continue to work well for decades.

Leica is also world renowned for the high optical performance of their lenses. They are virtually devoid of optical abberations commonly found in Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Olympus and other more popular lensmakers products.

Hope this is useful!





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Best Digital Camera Under 200 Dollars 2013 ?

Q. Best Digital Camera Under 200 Dollars ? what is the best camera i can buy for 200 dollars or less

A. Definitely, the Canon PowerShot SX500 IS http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00908BMVE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00908BMVE&linkCode=as2&tag=laptop058-20

It takes really great photos and videos at 1080 pixels. It has a good image stabilization and auto focus as well as a nice 30x zoom which is great. This camera has received tonnes of positive feedbacks and iI think is the best you can get for less than $200


Digital Camera for wildlife photography help?
Q. I am planing a couple trips in the next year. First trip is to go up to Alaska or Canada and I want to try and get some nice Polar Bear and Musk Oxen shots. Then I am going to be going out to Yellowstone to try and photograph wolves and finally I will be taking a trip to Australia and New Zealand and am hoping to get some great landscape and animal shots. But now I have to figure out what is going to be the best camera for me to get. I have a budget of around $3500.

Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.

I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.

A. You might get to see these animals, but don't get your hopes up too high. The Nikon D7100 with 18-105mm could be a good choice of camera for most of your shots. A super duper great telephoto to get the kind of shots you are dreaming of will blow your budget. For less ambitious but pretty good shots you could get the Nikon 70-300mm AF-S VR (the good 70-300, not the cheapo). Forget about a 2X teleconverter. The 70-300mm lacks a tripod collar, and it will be front heavy. You will want to bring a tripod. You need to think about what day pack you will carry it in, as the tripod must fit. There are some decent travel tripods. However, the light duty ballhead on some of these may be barely adequate with the 70-300mm. You need to assemble something with a good medium duty 3 way pan head, like maybe the Manfrotto 804RC2 or the Induro PHT2. BTW, if you want to point a panhead higher than about 30 degrees, the trick is to put the quick release plate on backwards.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.





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Best Digital Camera in 2013?

Q. I'm looking for a digital camera with the following:

* Awesome, detailed shots for both amateur and professional photography use
* Fast, extreme action modes with instant, non-blurry shots (no delay unless optional)
* Full 1080p Quality Video with Excellent Sound and no buzzing/noises
* Great Image Stabilization
* Lovely Zoom with little to no shaking and annoying sounds
* Ability to record beautifully in both low light and very bright settings
* Easiness to learn, maintain, and adjust to
* Durable and lasts for maybe 20 years

A lifetime warranty for a camera product would be nice, but I doubt it exists. I've looked at the newest Canon Rebel (zoom/sound issues), Nikon D7100 (seems too stiff in certain settings), some Panasonic models, etc. I am on a budget and want to record high quality music videos and shorts, and take fancy pictures with the camera I am seeking. I want to spend no more than maybe $650 on my ideal product. What are your suggestions and knowledge of expertise?

A. I have a dream that someday anyone who decides to take up photography as a hobby will first know and understand this: "It isn't the camera its the photographer."

A person with zero knowledge of light, composition and exposure will be unable to use any camera in any mode other than Program or Auto, allowing the camera to determine ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Even then, zero knowledge of just composition will usually produce mere snapshots.

In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really good pictures.

In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really bad pictures.

However, in those 42 years I have used a camera to make some really good pictures and some really bad pictures. The camera is just a tool and gets neither credit nor blame for my results good or bad. That's all on me.

Buy the least expensive DSLR you can find. Read & study the Owner's Manual. Then enroll in photography classes. Take notes. Practice. Make changes to aperture or shutter speed or ISO only when you understand why you're making them and what the results will be.

A 20 year old digital camera will be as useless as a 20 year old computer is today.

In many states a "lifetime" warranty is considered 7 years. Some high-end lenses (translate as a lens costing a few thousand dollars) have a 5 year warranty. Most DSLR bodies have a 1 year warranty.


Whats a good digital camera?
Q. I'm looking for a new camera that's around $100 or $120 I know that's not a lot but does anyone know a really nice digital camera please...?

A. Choose any Canon, Nikon, Samsung, Pentax, Panasonic or Sony. All 2012 and 2013 digital camera models are very powerful. Go to a store and put your hands on different cameras. See which cameras are within your budget and feel good. Any camera you buy will not disappoint you as long as you use it in good light. Most under $150 cameras will not work well in shooting fast moving objects indoor or taking photos in dull light. For that you will need to spend more than $500.
Now besides the camera, you can learn some basic photography lessons and get the most out of your powerful camera. Search the Internet and learn about Exposure Compensation, Multiple shots (fps), Timer, Bracketing, proper use of flash. Also use tripod and take photos with low ISO for stationary objects or for landscapes.
If you train yourself, any camera will help you get nice photos in most situations.
Good luck.





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Kamis, 13 Februari 2014

Best Digital Camera in 2013?

Q. I'm looking for a digital camera with the following:

* Awesome, detailed shots for both amateur and professional photography use
* Fast, extreme action modes with instant, non-blurry shots (no delay unless optional)
* Full 1080p Quality Video with Excellent Sound and no buzzing/noises
* Great Image Stabilization
* Lovely Zoom with little to no shaking and annoying sounds
* Ability to record beautifully in both low light and very bright settings
* Easiness to learn, maintain, and adjust to
* Durable and lasts for maybe 20 years

A lifetime warranty for a camera product would be nice, but I doubt it exists. I've looked at the newest Canon Rebel (zoom/sound issues), Nikon D7100 (seems too stiff in certain settings), some Panasonic models, etc. I am on a budget and want to record high quality music videos and shorts, and take fancy pictures with the camera I am seeking. I want to spend no more than maybe $650 on my ideal product. What are your suggestions and knowledge of expertise?

A. I have a dream that someday anyone who decides to take up photography as a hobby will first know and understand this: "It isn't the camera its the photographer."

A person with zero knowledge of light, composition and exposure will be unable to use any camera in any mode other than Program or Auto, allowing the camera to determine ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Even then, zero knowledge of just composition will usually produce mere snapshots.

In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really good pictures.

In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really bad pictures.

However, in those 42 years I have used a camera to make some really good pictures and some really bad pictures. The camera is just a tool and gets neither credit nor blame for my results good or bad. That's all on me.

Buy the least expensive DSLR you can find. Read & study the Owner's Manual. Then enroll in photography classes. Take notes. Practice. Make changes to aperture or shutter speed or ISO only when you understand why you're making them and what the results will be.

A 20 year old digital camera will be as useless as a 20 year old computer is today.

In many states a "lifetime" warranty is considered 7 years. Some high-end lenses (translate as a lens costing a few thousand dollars) have a 5 year warranty. Most DSLR bodies have a 1 year warranty.


What type of Film did video cameras for Hollywood use in the 1970's to make Hollywood movies?
Q. I know that people who made home movies in the 70's used 35mm, 16mm, 8mm any others if you know???

I assume it would have been different and or better than the type of film used for home movie films of the same time???

Can you name the calibers and sizes of professional hollywood movie Video Camera film???

I can find out a lot about home movie making back then but not about what movie studios of hollywood used that is why i am asking.

Also about today's recording media it is probably since we are in the digital age. Are hollywood movie Cameras recording Digitally to a Hard Drive or something like that nowadays???

I figure any type of video tape for recording a hollywood movie has not been used in years because we are in the digital age. So any videos Cameras hollywood uses today is saving to a Hard Drive Digitally is what i figure anyway.

I always wondered to are Video Cameras going back to the 70's to Present Day 2013 what types of power sources did they use like Car Batteries,Power Cords plugged to wall outlets or some other type of battery???

I say Car Batteries and power cords plugged to wall outlets because i figure it would take something pretty heavy duty to run a Video Camera for a Movie and not some lithium ion rechargeable proprietary battery like home video cameras use today in the present day.


I ask these questions because i have always had an interest in Video and Still Cameras. Both of the Consumer Home Category and the Big Leauges where Movies of Hollywood for the Big Screen are made.

I Really do appreciate your helpful answers community.

A. Hollywood movies since the era of "talkies" have been shot on either 1 inch or 2 inch wide film strips. Known in the trade as "35mm" and "65mm". Silent movies and home movies from the 20s used 16mm or 1/2 inch wide film. then Kodak came out with its 8mm format for home movie use. 8mm is the same identical film as 16mm double perf but only exposed for half the width. the reel is flipped at the end and then the other side is exposed. 8mm is also 16 fps instead of 24 fps used for theatrical movies. thus it consumed a lot less film making it affordable for home use. after exposure, the double shot camera reel was developed, split down the center and spliced together to make a single 3.5 minute reel of 1/4 inch wide film with sprocket holes on one side only. The reels for 8mm film are the same as for 1/4 inch audio tape except they have a feature that prevents them from being mounted backwards on the projector.

when videotape came out with portable cameras for consumer use that pretty much ended the 8mm movie era. Kodak and other camera makers came out with Super8 which was a cartridge film system to try and compete. Compared to 8mm it offered improvements, like sound, higher frame rate (18 fps) slightly larger image size, battery power, and ease of handling, but the public preferred VHS that could be viewed on the TV set instead of requiring a projector and screen.

the majority of Hollywood movies are still shot on 65mm film. the film is often converted to 4k video for the purpose of editing and special effects creation and then regenerated back to film for theatrical use. it has only been very recently that CCD technology has improved to allow 4k video to be imaged directly by a digital camera, so that is the future of movie making as it matches the 4k video editing that has been done in Hollywood since the 1980s.. HDTV is 1k video for comparison.

there is a huge gap in quality between equipment made for the motion picture industry and home use. that is mostly because the big screen requires far more resolution than a TV set.





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Should I buy a Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX7?

Q. I've been saving up for six months, and I really love the camera. Do you think it's worth the money?

A. Don't let anyone spoil the party. If you really love this camera, go ahead and buy it. Panasonic makes wonderful and capable cameras. If you buy some other camera, you will regret it later because your love is here with GX7 ;)
However if I were you I would put the money in some Pentax camera like K30, k50, k5 etc. They have bigger sensor, better image quality and better overall value for money. If you are looking for a smaller form factor, you can buy Pentax K01 for around $450-500 which normally comes with a 40mm XS lens which itself is one of the best kit lenses out there in any consumer grade SLR/Mirrorless camera kits.
Would highly recommend you to read this:
http://photography-with-any-camera.blogspot.com/2013/05/best-digital-slr-for-beginners.html





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help to buy entry level DSLR?

Q. Hi Folks,

I am much interested in photography since my childhood. But till I was using Canon A3100 Point and Shoot camera.

I am willing to buy an entry level DSLR as I am an amateur. I googled much but arrived in a confusion. I have shortlisted 2 models. Please suggest the best one.

1) Canon 600 D - heard many positive reviews, but lens cost is more and there is no auto focus in video mode.

2) Sony SLT A58 - heard that lens costs cheaper. But is it rare in market ? I think auto focus in video mode is available.

A. Actually Canon has some great value priced lenses. Sony has limited line up of lenses and they are normally expensive.
Here is an article that should help you with your first DSLR purchase:
http://photography-with-any-camera.blogspot.com/2013/05/best-digital-slr-for-beginners.html

Also, don't buy a camcorder for video as one answerer suggested unless you don't care much about quality. With a right lens, an SLR will take much better video than any consumer grade camcorder. With SLR you can do selective focusing but a camcorder will give you flat videos- everything always in focus. Here is another read for you:
http://photography-with-any-camera.blogspot.com/2013/03/video-recording-with-dslr-is-it-worth-it.html


Canon Eos 600D (Rebel T3i) vs Sony Alpha SLT-A58?
Q. I am a newbie in photography...This is going to be my first DSLR camera
I have these two choices-
Sony Alpha SLT-A58 and Canon EOS 600D (Rebel T3i)

I really dont know much about cameras so id like your opinion with pros and cons.

Also-
Assume there are two lenses
18-55mm and 50mm

What is the difference?
If we buy the 18-55 we can adjust it to 50mm which would give the same effect as 50mm so why buy another 50mm lense?
(I really dont know about lenses too so i might have said something stupid above ..Please clarify it for me)
Nick,
So Canon Eos600D vs Sony Alpha SLT-A58
Which would u choose and why?

A. Both are great cameras. Either one will make happy. They both have more features than most of us would need in day in day out photography.If you are able to get-over Canon syndrome, I would recommend buying A58 as it has better image quality, AF in video and overall better video recording abilities and is lighter and thinner. Sony normally gives better features such as in camera HDR, fast auto focus, panoramas.

With regard to lenses, one very important number is F. 50mm lenses are prime lenses and they are usually much faster, sharper than 18-55mm kit lenses. Also, they can be used in low lights and for great portraits compared to 18-55mm lenses. Being fixed at 50mm focus length, you can not zoom but at wide aperture they give excellent background blur which wills stand out. Sony has 50mm F1.8 lense for around $180 or you can buy a used one for around $100. I would strongly recommend you to buy that lens too. If you want to buy only one lens, I would tell you to buy a fast 50mm lens if you are shooting mostly indoor and mostly people or pets.
Here is a photo I took on Pentax k-01 with a 45 year old 50mm lens. My friend had a camera 3 times more expensive but it struggled to shoot in this light.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12298420@N05/8446183616/

As other answerer has mentioned, Pentax makes great cameras. K30 and K01 have great image quality and are sold at very attractive value prices.

Read this article to get over which camera is better dilemma:
http://photography-with-any-camera.blogspot.com/2013/05/best-digital-slr-for-beginners.html





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Don't you find it odd that very few photos of George Zimmerman after his trial seem to exist?

Q. Think about it, probably the most talked about person of 2013 outside of Syrian president Bashar Assad and President Obama, and I'll be damned if I can find a picture of George Zimmerman after his trial.

I mean, in a day where nearly everyone has instant access to a super high quality digital camera complete with internet access and no one has photographed any pictures of George Zimmerman as he is saving people from car accidents, getting pulled over for speeding, or even simply gassing his car or getting groceries. You'd think that social media should be flooded with

You'd think that at least the paparazzi working for People Magazine would have caught a photo if him at the very least.

Am I wrong about this? Am I simply missing these photos on social media sites or are social media sites purposely keeping Zimmerman photos off their networks?

A. Are you serious? He was just arrested two days ago for punching his father in law in the nose. His wife just filed for divorce partly because she's tired of living in a trailer in the woods.


Which Desktop should I get?
Q. Difference between these two desktops?
They are both Dell XPS 8500. Which one should I get? There is a 50 $ price difference.
First One-
3rd Gen Intel® Core� i5-3350P processor
Features a 6MB cache and 3.1GHz processor speed with Turbo Boost up to 3.3GHz.
Intel® Core� i5 processor
Features smart 4-way processing performance with a speed boost.
Intel® Turbo Boost Technology
Automatically speeds up your processor when your PC needs extra performance.
8GB DDR3 SDRAM
For multitasking power, expandable to 32GB.

Multiformat DVD±RW/CD-RW drive
Create custom DVDs and CDs.

1TB Serial ATA hard drive (7200 rpm)
Offers spacious storage and fast read/write times.
AMD Radeon HD 7570 graphics

Feature 1GB GDDR5 dedicated video memory for lush images with intricate detail. HDMI output for connection to an HDTV.

4 USB 3.0 and 6 USB 2.0 ports
For fast digital video, audio and data transfer.
Built-in Dell Wireless 1703 high-speed wireless LAN (802.11b/g/n)
Connect to the Internet without wires.

Bluetooth 4.0 interface
Easily link with other Bluetooth-enabled devices, such as a mobile phone or MP3 player.

Built-in Ethernet LAN
With RJ-45 connector for quick and easy wired Web connection.

Microsoft Windows 8 operating system preinstalled
Provides a stable platform for word processing, Web navigation, gaming, media storage and more.
Software package included
With CyberLink Media Suite Essentials and more. Includes 1-month trial of Microsoft Office 365.

There is also Internal high-definition 7.1 Performance Audio with Waves MaxxAudio
IT is 749.99 $.

Here is the other one.
3rd Gen Intel® Core� i5-3350P processor
Features a 6MB cache and 3.1GHz processor speed with Turbo Boost up to 3.3GHz.
Intel® Core� i5 processor

Features smart 4-way processing performance with a speed boost.
Intel® Turbo Boost Technology
Automatically speeds up your processor when your PC needs extra performance.
8GB DDR3 SDRAM
For multitasking power, expandable to 32GB.
Multiformat DVD±RW/CD-RW drive
Lets you create custom DVDs and CDs.
1TB Serial ATA III hard drive (7200 rpm)
Offers spacious storage and fast read/write times. The 16MB cache provides enhanced performance.
AMD Radeon HD 7570 graphics
Feature 1GB DDR5 dedicated video memory for lush images with intricate detail. HDMI output for connection to an HDTV.
19-in-1 media reader
Supports Secure Digital, Secure Digital High Capacity, miniSD, microSD, MultiMediaCard, Reduced-Size MultiMediaCard, MultiMediaCard Plus, MultiMediaCard micro, RD MultiMediaCard Plus and Compact Flash I/II formats.
Also supports SmartMedia, Memory Stick, Memory Stick Duo, Memory Stick PRO, Memory Stick PRO Duo, Memory Stick Micro, xD-Picture Card and Microdrive formats.
4 USB 3.0 and 6 USB 2.0 ports
For fast digital video, audio and data transfer.
Built-in Dell Wireless 1703 LAN (802.11b/g/n)
Connect to the Internet without wires.
Bluetooth 4.0 + LE interface
Easily link with other Bluetooth-enabled devices, such as a mobile phone or MP3 player.
Built-in 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet LAN
For quick and easy wired Web connection.
Microsoft Windows 8 64-bit operating system preinstalled
Provides a stable platform for word processing, Web navigation, gaming, media storage and more.
Software package included
With CyberLink Media Suite Essentials.

THERE is also
Integrated 7.1-channel with Waves MaxxAudio

THIS one is 679.99$






Which one should I get? I am really confused. Can u also tell me the difference between the two Ethernet types, GDDR5 vs DDR5 and the sound systems and also are the hard drive speeds make any difference with SATA and SATA III. At last and tell me which one is bang for the buck. Thank you in advance. Please describe of why you know.

A. The $679.99 desktop seems to be a better buy since it has a memory card reader. The addition of a memory card reader allows you to read memory cards such as those from digital cameras and a few other devices to be used.

The Ethernet ports are the same since the desktops are the same model which, I presume, uses the same motherboard. The different types of Ethernet LAN are the theoretical speeds that the Ethernet is able to handle, most if not all new computers in 2013 come with 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet LAN. The more speeds do not matter since everything is restricted by internet speeds by your internet provider (Verizon, Comcast,etc...)or by networking equipment in your home. If you connect to your internet with a cable to your router or modem, the Dell Ethernet LAN is used. If you use WiFi, then the Dell wireless LAN is used.

There is no difference between GDDR5 and DDR5 since they are labelled under the amd radeon 7570 card which is a dedicated card with its own memory. DDR5 is GDDR5 when it is under a graphics card. A dedicated card is for better performance and graphics for gaming or videos.

Hard Drives in pre-built computers are hard to find out, but again there should not be a difference since they only have one hard drive but the xps 8500 has its hard drive connected to a SATA III port.

The sound systems does not make any difference as many integrated sound systems are sufficient enough. You may have to buy separate speakers for either of the computers which adds to your computer costs since new computers may not come with speakers.

The $679.99 model is better since it costs less and has the same specs and a memory card reader. Keep in mind there are other things that may increase the price of your desktop such as taxes and additional items that are not included such as speakers and monitors. If you are buying from a store, haggle with the manager for a better price, be sure to be kind to them. Best regards to you





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Rabu, 12 Februari 2014

Is the Panasonic DMC-GF3Kdigital camera?

Q. A good camera for the 4/3 compact digital camera, for casual use or should I consider the Sony NEX-6L/B be a better choice for someone who only takes photos occasionally. an the accessories for a camera such as this, for this type of use, or something better on the market in 2013.

A. It doesn't matter if you takes pictures occasionally or all the time. All cameras have the ability to take good pictures. It's the user's responsibility to make the pictures look good. That depends a lot on his ability.

Both Panasonic and Sony make good cameras. You shouldn't have any problem with any. If you are most concerned about portability, look at the Pentax Q system. It's enough to fit in your hand and still maintain an interchangeable lens system. Pentax, if you're not familiar with it, has very good optical quality.


What kind of camera should I buy?
Q. I wouldn't like to spend over $800
I need a camera that's good quality..better than your average digital camera and that can both take photos and record video (that's not as important but it would be nice)
I would like to be able to use it for motion photos, landscape, night life etc.
Basically the most important thing is picture quality :)
Any ideas. Thanks!

A. Having used several DSLRs and mirrorless cameras, I like Pentax K-01 as a great camera- one of the best image quality out then in below $1000 cameras. Pentax used to sell for around $900 but their gamble with the style backfired so they are clearing them out. They currently sell for around $400 with a nice 40mm 2.8 lens.

Read full details here:
http://photography-with-any-camera.blogspot.com/2013/06/which-is-great-dslr-buy-these-days.html





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Digital Camera for wildlife photography help?

Q. I am planing a couple trips in the next year. First trip is to go up to Alaska or Canada and I want to try and get some nice Polar Bear and Musk Oxen shots. Then I am going to be going out to Yellowstone to try and photograph wolves and finally I will be taking a trip to Australia and New Zealand and am hoping to get some great landscape and animal shots. But now I have to figure out what is going to be the best camera for me to get. I have a budget of around $3500.

Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.

I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.

A. You might get to see these animals, but don't get your hopes up too high. The Nikon D7100 with 18-105mm could be a good choice of camera for most of your shots. A super duper great telephoto to get the kind of shots you are dreaming of will blow your budget. For less ambitious but pretty good shots you could get the Nikon 70-300mm AF-S VR (the good 70-300, not the cheapo). Forget about a 2X teleconverter. The 70-300mm lacks a tripod collar, and it will be front heavy. You will want to bring a tripod. You need to think about what day pack you will carry it in, as the tripod must fit. There are some decent travel tripods. However, the light duty ballhead on some of these may be barely adequate with the 70-300mm. You need to assemble something with a good medium duty 3 way pan head, like maybe the Manfrotto 804RC2 or the Induro PHT2. BTW, if you want to point a panhead higher than about 30 degrees, the trick is to put the quick release plate on backwards.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.


Which camera should I buy?
Q. I need a really good camera in april (2013), I'm thinking of buying a nikon 1 J1 but I'm not sure, the nikon 1 J2 is too expensive if you look at the differences with the J1 . Shoul I buy a nikon 1 J1? Or is there a better camera in the market which is cheaper or around the same price? It must be digital and have a (not too) big lens. thanks!

A. Look at the Nikon V1. They are ridiculously low priced right now ($299) while stock is left or until Dec 30. If you wait until April 2013, this deal (and all remaining V1s) will likely be gone.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/823590-REG/Nikon_27504_Nikon_1_V1_Mirrorless.html

The original MSRP of $899 for the V1 was way too overpriced, but at $299, it is very attractive.

The V1 is an upscale version of the J1, and may or may not be to your liking, but at the price they are selling for, it is an easy decision. The main differences are that the V1 has an electronic viewfinder, and lacks an internal flash, when compared to the J1. It is also slightly larger and heavier, as it has a larger battery, giving about 25% more capacity. The V1 also has both electronic and manual shutters, whereas the J1 only has an electronic shutter.

Oddly enough, the V1 is priced about $100 less than the least expensive J1 that I can find, but if you buy the optional flash for the V1, it will be about $30 more than the J1.

Some reviews have the J1 with a slightly better image than the V1. I am highly skeptical about that as they are essentially the same camera; same sensor, and same digital processor, same lenses.

The only thing I can fathom is that the J1 has a different set of presets than the V1 (which is the old Canon trick), and/or not every reviewer necessarily knows what they are doing anyway.

There is one under Awboater's Christmas tree.





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Selasa, 11 Februari 2014

i want to find a digital camera 4 outdoor night concert starts at 7:00p june 22, 2014 personal dig cam allowed?

Q. Xfinity Center Mansfield,MA Camera Policy: Personal cameras are allowed in the venue. Flash photography, video and removable lens cameras are not permitted without venue approval.

i'm going to a outdoor concert the moument tour fall out boy and paramore and new politics june 22 2014 sunday.

i want one that has good zoom and can take good hd pictures and video. i have seat behind the pit and plus a meet and greet with paramore.

i have money but not too much money is there a way u could do like for example a cam from 200 to 300 to 400 to 500 to 600 to 700 to 800 to 9 1000

can you give me a several suggestions link me to online stores that sell digital cameras to the pages to the camera that good at taking photo n videos at concerts outdoors or indoors

good at alot of light or low light

link me some good digital cams good fer concerts at the xfinity center mansfield ma. i need one that fit into my pocket or jacket cause.

i dont use back packs im not completely sure what your saying im not a electronic expert. i need options

i had a kodak easy share v570 dual lens worlds first dual lens digital i really want to upgrade to a better newer camera i need help help me point me in the right digital cameras
if you were going to a outdoor concert that starts at 7:00pm and the day is going into night what digital camera would you use at night unless theres alot of lights

A. Now that you are moving your budget out of fantasy land, maybe you can find something.
If it is really important to get your camera allowed for the concert, you can rule out DSLR's or mirrorless system cameras.
Cameras with 1/2.3" sensors will give extra-crappy results in the low light if you can't use a tripod or flash, and you can't.
You are left with the premium compacts that have a little bit better sensors. That means choosing from among these, just to be maybe not bad. Being great isn't an option. That requires the kind of equipment you can't get a pass for and knowing how to use it. You can buy their video for a fraction of the cost of the camera you can buy to try in vain to match it.
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/6489685206/enthusiast-compact-camera-2013-roundup
That's it. If you want something else, then own up to the stated use goal being unrealistic.
Among them, longer focal length can get you a closer view, but it will be a blur unless you have a pretty low f number at the longer focal length, and it can still be a blur if you don't know how to hold it good and steady.
If the goal is to capture yourself and your friends at the event (at last an actual sensible goal!) then you have some very good options among the cameras with shorter zoom ranges.


camera package advice?
Q. So im looking at packages such as this one: http://www.amazon.com/T3i-75-300mm-Telephoto-Accessory-Kit/dp/B005KUGXJW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1368422743&sr=8-11&keywords=canon+rebel+t3i+packages
does this look like a good deal? do you know of any packages that come with canon brand accessories? Im looking for stuff under 750$ and want more lenses, filters, a memory card, and possibly a remote. thanks

A. http://www.amazon.com/T3i-75-300mm-Telephoto-Accessory-Kit/dp/B005KUGXJW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1368422743&sr=8-11&keywords=canon+rebel+t3i+packages

This package isn't worth the money. A couple of flimsy tripods I wouldn't trust using with a point & shoot compact digital camera much less a DSLR. Canon's worst lens ever, the 75-300mm. A couple of cheap image degrading screw in attachments. Forget about this so-called deal.

Look at B&H for better deals. B&H has the T3i w/18-55mm zoom lens for $599.00 after a $50.00 'Instant Savings' that ends June 1, 2013. B&H also has a two lens kit - T3i w/18-55mm zoom and 55-250mm zoom - for $599.00 after a $200.00 'Instant Savings' that ends June 8, 2013.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com Just do a search for canon t3i and then make your decision as to which deal is best for you.





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Senin, 10 Februari 2014

Is this a good camera to buy?

Q. I need a good camera for a reasonable price..is this camera a good one. Im need it to be waterproof for my vacation pics. OLYMPUS CORPORATION - TG-830 iHS 16.0-Mega pixel Digital Camera with 5-25mm Lens' in Digital Cameras

A. Olympus release 2 waterproof cameras this year. TG-830 is the budget one and there is more highend one, Olympus TG-2 iSH whch is $379 at Amazon.

This year most camera brands has already released their 2 waterpoof cameras and TG-830 probably the best one with features in budget line but also the most expensive one.


http://www.camerausa.net/waterproof/waterproof-cameras-2013.php


Sony digital camera( DSC-TX30/B)....this camera good or no? please tell........?
Q.

A. Here is a review
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sony-cyber-shot-dsc-tx30
Within the category of immersible compact cameras, its image quality is probably among the best in the studio test, although that is not a category with spectacularly great image quality. In the real world comparison tests it seems to have fallen a bit below the competition.
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/2013-waterproof-roundup/14
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/2013-waterproof-roundup/15
It is the lightest and most compact within that class. However, it is not a very easy camera to handle for actual diving.

With any compact camera you should use a wriststrap, and all the more so when handling these water resistant cameras in the water. with no floatation attached, they will sink.

For diving the Canon D20 has an advantage with the best ergonomics. Image quality is good for its class with least noise reduction smudging or highlight clipping. The Nikon AW110 is a very good overall performer for its class in image quality and has least chromatic aberration. The Olympus TG-2 gains an advantage in low light with its f2 lens. For video with real time sound, its sound gets terrible when immersed in water.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBFwthdyXRQ
The Pentax WG-3 also has an f2 lens, but its images were rather dull in this test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jnxn_Ng-1U8
The Panasonic TS5 seems to produce some nice images, and it has the best video options, but its autofocus is sluggish.

A peculiar thing about the Nikon AW110 is that they package it with a neckstrap and advise against using a neckstrap in the water for safety reasons. An aftermarket wriststrap should be purchased for it.





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camera choice confusion?

Q. Hi. Il just give a brief overview of my issue...

Im aiming to travel next year from London to Auckland (no planes - the long way across europe, asia) and document my trip through photography, im having some confusion between which camera i should buy. Iv narrowed it down to either the Canon D5 mk2 or the Canon D7. I will only be taking the one body but i want to be able to capture all manor of shots but my main interest are landscape and wildlife/action. Iv read quite a few comparisons and am feeling a little overwhelmed. It seems that the two cameras are both suited individually for my needs. What would you recommend? Any advice on which lense i should invest in would also be appreciated. Thanks for your time
How come? I know the MK2 is FF which is better for the landscape but the D7 shoots nearly twice the fps. Could i substitue the FF and use a wide angle lense? Im an amateur hence the lack of knowledge. Thanks
Thought i should also add im about to start a photography course in order to understand the theory. Il have mucho fun putting it all to practise before i start on my journey.

A. Either camera will, in the right hands, produce good results. However, these are rather bulky cameras so you really should visit a camera store and handle both models. Think about carrying either of them for several hours a day.

So I'm going to suggest a different make and model of camera for you to consider - the Sony NEX-5R which has an APS-C sized sensor and is Wi-Fi capable. Here is a review/preview:
http://www.dpreview.com/previews/sony-alpha-nex-5r

At B&H - http://www.bhphotovideo.com - you can find the Sony NEX-5R with an 18-55mm zoom lens for $748.00 or you could buy the body for $598.00 and add the all-rounder 18-200mm zoom for an additional $848.00. A version with a 16-50mm zoom lens will be available on or about Jan. 23, 2013 and is shown for $798.00.

Regardless of what make and model of camera you decide to buy, you're going to have to devote time to read & study the Owner's Manual. You'll also need to learn about the main components of photography - Light, Composition, Exposure and Depth of Field. Contrary to popular belief, simply buying an expensive camera doesn't automatically mean you'll immediately begin making good pictures. Spend time at these sites:

LIGHT
http://photographyknowhow.com/photography-lighting/
http://photographyknowhow.com/quality-of-light-in-photography/
http://photographyknowhow.com/direction-of-light-in-photography/

COMPOSITION
http://www.photographymad.com/pages/view/10-top-photography-composition-rules

EXPOSURE
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography

DEPTH of FIELD
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm

Another, more esoteric component of photography is called Seeing Photographically. This site will help you understand what this is:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/aesthetics-1.shtml


What is a good camera?
Q. I am sick of getting these digital cameras that eat batteries and take fuzzy pictures and then just stop working. My third one just won't turn on any more. Once I take it back, I want to find a new one. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm looking for around the $100 mark but I'll appreciate any ideas you have.

A. Canon PowerShot A2500 is an excellent camera. This camcorder comes with 2.7-inch TFT color LCD . It also has 16megapixel and ½.3 inch ccd sensor. It can also hold up to 64gb sd card. This camera shoots awesome videos with a 720p HD and have been one of the top recommended in 2013 so far. It would be perfect for your youtube videos. It is sold at amazon for $85 which i think is a decent price for such quality. I have provided links below for you.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5HE2UG/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00B5HE2UG&linkCode=as2&tag=laptop058-20


check out this video that the camcorder took below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2ZTJPm2Fd8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zz71kfXPapA





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5,000 files in one folder Keeps freezing Windows?

Q. I have taken photos over a period of 6 years.. and ive put them all in one folder..

I have 1.12 GB (1,206,584,242 bytes) of total data in one folder with four sub folders but it has over 90% of the pictures in the root folder of E:\photos\Digital Camera\ <--- theres at least 5,000 files there.

Now when I go into the folder to view files... explorer.exe takes 99% of system resource and never loads anymore... I want to be able to save my files. .but I Dont know what to do.. am I going to have to Delete the folder permanently and loose everything? I have tried folder options with "Do not cache thumbnails" Both on and off.. and nither works.. I have even disabled "Auto search NEtwork Drives and folders"

This is Windows XP SP3 Professional.


Please any help would be appreciated,
Thanks in advance.
im sorry when I said "I have even disabled "Auto Search networks and folders" I meant to actually say - "Automatically search for network folders and printers. " I heard disabling that helps with search times in the folders of explorer.exe to speed things up..
Thanks guys all your feedback was very helpful, Special thanks to TJ and , Ramblin' Man, Also Ramblin' Man I did have one video that was being thumbnailed and it was a corrupted file too. I deleted it. Ive already started archving and the indexing speeds is increasing very well. Thnx to all ur help.

A. In XP (either FAT32 or NTFS formats for where your pictures are stored) there's an inherent catch that affects most all operating systems - I'll try to explain...

Imagine if you will your photos were in a book (ie: scrapbook) and that at the start of the book there's a table of contents which indicates not only how MANY pages there are (in your case, each photo is a page in this index) but also the date(s) regarding the page, the size of the content and so forth.

The catch here is that the more files you dump into a single directory, the longer it takes for these "table of content" pages to be created.

The old "rule of thumb" is 512 files per directory. Once this line is crossed, you're going to reserve and use more and more system resources to gather the TOC (table of contents) and the more resources that get spent doing this, the less resources there are to DO this job.

Note: Windows 7/8 still have this flaw -- it's not anything YOU have done, yourself.

You noted there's roughly six years worth of images in this one location. Here's what I would recommend...

1. Create a new folder on the SAME drive called something like "Sorted Photos"
2. Within this new folder, create additional folders specific to the YEAR in which the images were taken (ie: 2013, 2012, etc.)
3. This will be painfully slow at first, but open your drive (My Computer > Storage Drive) and do an ADVANCED SEARCH (Press CTRL + F for "Find" and on the left menu of the Find dialog select FILES AND FOLDERS and under advanced features, choose a date range of say, 01-01-2012 through 12-31-2012 and then run the search) Once all the images for that year have been searched for, press <ALT> + <E> and the letter "A" (ALT+E opens the main menu under EDIT, then "A" selects "Select All") and then press <CTRL>+<X> to CUT these images. Go into your new folder under that year and press <CTRL>+<V> to paste them into the new location.
4. Once you've done this for a year or two worth of images, the indexing and search speeds will increase dramatically. Repeat as necessary for all images in the old folder.

Now... once you have them sorted by YEAR, it wouldn't be a bad idea to repeat this process by MONTH which will very likely help index and organize your photos even more so.

The way we do this here is even more elaborate - we take photos and other content and embed them into databases which allows me to add captions/notes, compress the images so that they do not take up nearly a fraction of the drive space and thus I can burn them onto CD or DVD with ease AND still maintain the original image quality. This takes a bit of effort and my software is in-house written and likely further than you want to go at this point, but there are truly endless possibilities how to organize your media while making it painless for both you as well as your machine.

* If you're not revisiting your older images very often, I'd also strongly recommend archiving them. The way we do this here (which maintains protection) is by first creating a zip like archive (RAR format - see link below) which compresses BMP, JPEG and other image formats wonderfully, and then take the images AND the RAR file and burn them onto CD or DVD - two sets are created in case one gets damaged. Once accomplished, they can then be physically removed from the computer and your images are safe... and they're not hurting your computer's efficiency.

** If your machine doesn't want to work WITH you regarding getting these images cleaned up and reorganized, drop me an email and I can design a quick application to do so for you which will basically achieve what was listed above with the least amount of effort (assuming the date-stamps on the files are remotely accurate) - if so, drop me an email here at CentralWare [at] yahoo.com

Good luck and hope this helps!


Getting all of my film speed with Rodinal?
Q. I've been playing around with different films and developers and combinations for the past couple of months. I want to branch out from HC-110 and see what else is out there, and what else I like.

I've read a lot about Rodinal not delivering full film speed, and I pretty sure that's what I'm encountering here. It seems like whenever I soup in Rodinal at the standard times given on the Massive Dev Chart (a good place to start, at least), the negatives come out around 2-3 stops dark. I don't care so much for test rolls, but I shot a portrait session with medium format PanF+, developed in Rodinal, and lost at least 4 or 5 frames that could have been great. They were just too thin to recover.

Anyone have any advice here? I just want my exposures to come out the way they would if I was using HC-110. I'm not underexposing in camera, it's definitely something to do with the developer. I'm using 1:50 so far, and souping as documented on my little blog I use to keep track of my experiments:

http://filmsanddevelopers.blogspot.com/2013/05/adox-adonal-rodinal-and-ilford-panf.html
http://filmsanddevelopers.blogspot.com/2013/04/adox-adonal-rodinal-and-ilford-delta-100.html
I'm sorry, let me clarify: The negatives are thin. The images themselves (after being scanned or printed) are dark. Meaning, underexposed. I didn't state that very well.

Thanks for the info though, I'll run some more tests.

A. Like more density on the negatives you work with do you?

A photographer in Alaska used black and white film which he exposed to have a minimum of emulsion left on the film back after developing.

If it was my roll of film, I'd have had a heart attack and died on the spot! And if I had survived that I would have had my light meters. handheld and built into cameras, looked at plus the shutter speeds and lens apertures and then the film developers!

But back to all seriousness, this fella, lets call him Bill, also modified his print processing procedure, buying and using a digital enlarger timer and with closing the enlarger lens down, printed some of the most grain free images with great tonal scale! Both pics taken out of doors and pics taken indoors in low light conditions

Most lab rats would close their enlarger lenses down a stop or two and use seconds to expose proof sheets and prints.
This fella closed the lens down a few stops more and used tenths and hundredths of seconds as exposure times!

Plus had many more pic taking opportunities than the rest of us using Kodak Tri-X films or Illford's similar b&w product, pushing films to a paltry asa 800, 1200 or 1600 and exposing films for shadow detail.

This I beleive is where Rodinal and other developers used for developing b&w films rated to higher asa's got their so called bad reputations. The photographers could not or did not know how to modify their print processing procedure to take advantage of ther film developers ability to make such delicate looking negatives and the higher quality grain free images that resulted.





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Minggu, 09 Februari 2014

Has Anyone heard of a website called Camera Valley?

Q. Here is the link to the website
http://www.camera-valley.com/Canon_70D_EOS_DSLR_202MP_w_18-135mm_f35-56_STM_IS_Lens/p2204978_9954002.aspx


My Question is Do you think it is safe buying a camera from them?
I found the canon 70D for $787 VS 1500 on amazon
do you think it's to good to be true?

Thank for your answer

A. Website has only been registered since June 2013.
The registered contact is in Malaysia but their "about us" says New Zealand and Australia.
Site looks like something my 2 year old might have put together.
Prices too good to be true ....

787$ for 70D when it;s twice that at reputable stores like Amazon, Henrys, B&H? Hell even Digital Rev is selling it for 1300$!!!

Avoid this like the plague.


English homework... persuasive essay.. helpp!?
Q. I have to write an English essay, a persuasive one... it has to be on a controversy topic... i chose video game violence causing children to become violent. I need some quotes that are short and easy to read. I am also having to do a 2 minute speech on my topic in front of a camera and my English class. I don't want to use super big words because that will make my essay boring. I really want quotes for and against this topic that are easy to understand. Thanks for all the help. Also if anyone could, i need reasons for why people think this is true and untrue. Thanks. P.S. i normally don't need help on papers i write because it normally comes naturally but I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place for the first time. I'm stumped. Thanks again...!!!

A. Here's a quote which takes the "no" position:
"We know from history, that tragic events often spark moral panics that target media. Recall the tremendous hue and cry following Columbine, where the predators in the mass violence were portrayed as loners who were addicted to violent video games, or the recent descriptions of the Newtown gunman as someone who was isolated and played with digital media for hours a day.

But as appealing as the anecdotal evidence is, empirically these findings don't hold up. Comprehensive, scientifically conducted reviews of the video game violence field such as those called for by some policymakers and advocates already exist: the U.S. Supreme Court as well as highly credible reviews by Australia and Sweden have all recently concluded that the existing video game research could not support direct links between violent entertainment and societal violence."
Michael Levine and Christopher Ferguson, Huffington Post, April 5 2013

And here's a quote that takes the "yes" position:
"Frequently playing violent video games is �strongly associated� with aggression in juveniles who have had trouble with the law, according to a new study co-authored by three Iowa State University professors and two other researchers.....�Playing violent video games is a risk factor for aggressive behavior,� said Matt DeLisi, an Iowa State University sociology professor and one of the paper�s five authors. �It is not the only factor, but is a factor.� "
from an article by Daniel P. Finney in the DesMoinesRegister.com, March 27 2013

Both authors quote scientific studies, and the two of them come up with opposite conculusions!
Good luck :)





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Professional camcorder 2013?

Q. Hi several years ago, HVR-Z1U was my main camera but since this one is too old and still need to use by film, I wanted to buy professional camcorder. I'm going to buy it in B&H but not sure which one is good choice. the price will be between $2000~3500. Can you show me the recent professional camcorder?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ns=p_PRICE_2|0

A. Film cameras us film. Once the film is exposed, , in a dark place, the film is removed from the camera and sent in a light-tight container for chemical processing. For editing, a splicer is used. Or, individual frames are scanned (one by on) and digitized for use in a computer editing system. Typically, film cameras do not record audio. Sound is recorded externally.

The Sony HVR-Z1 is a digital camcorder. It record high quality, low compression DV and HDV video to miniDV tape. It is a digital video camcorder. There is no film involved. The Z1 has a built-in mic and also XLR connectors for external mics. It has a 72mm diameter lens and a 3CCD imaging chip that is 1/3".

My definition of "professional camcorder":
Lens diameter 70mm or larger.
Imaging chip is 3CCD or 3CMOS, 1/3 inch or larger.
XLR audio inputs.
Your Z1 meets all these requirements.

In your price range, we have:
* Sony HDR-FX1000 (it is the prosumer sibling to the Z1; uses miniDV tape; has only a 3.5mm stereo audio-in connecter - add a BeachTek or juicedLink XLR adapter is needed).

* The Sony HVR-Z5 (replaced the Z1), PMW160, HXRNX5, all the NEX and NX series camcorders are outside your budget.

* The Canon XF300 series is outside your budget.

* The Panasonic AG-AC series camcorders that meet the above criteria are outside your budget.

* The JVC GY-HM600 might fit your budget.

I think you are better of sticking with the Z1 - unless it is broken.





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