Minggu, 29 Desember 2013

I need help finding spy glasses?

Q. I need some spy glasses that record video and audio.

Right now I am having problems finding some that record more than 2 hours. I need at least 8, but the longer the better. I don't care If i have to change batteries. I just cant plug it in every 2 hours and let it charge.

I found some that go off a DVR but I can not figure out how that works. Do the glasses plug into them? Do they last longer? Can you change batteries in that.

A. You probably want a set of glasses that have batteries but don't actually record ( saving power).. but transmit wirelessly to a nearby DVR ( just records the signal from glasses.. like a walkman or cell phone in your pocket. just a separate device to record - DVR= digital video recorder)

Better yet, if you can manage it, get something not in glasses, as they can be obvious. Only the really good glasses look like "normal" glasses. Many of the cheaper ones look a little "off" and could raise suspicion.
There are many examples of tiny microphones and 'button cams', that look like part of your clothing, or part of a bookbag / knapsack/ briefcase/ purse, coat, belt, etc.
Then you can wire all the devices together, and use a good battery to power all of it.

Electronics like these can have a very high failure rate, so stick with big names ( sony, panasonic, LG, Canon).. OR deal with a very trusted vendor who will allow full refund returns or exchanges for at least 3 months. The big names fail a lot less often, and will honor a warranty. Local or online vendors that know they may have to give you a full refund will be less likely to sell you garbage. .. STILL, test these things out at least a few times before it counts. Get the idea of angles , focus / distance, sound echoes, record time, battery time.. and differences from different temps, wind, rain, indoor/outdoor with background noise like pc fans, indoor wi-fi and radio interference, air conditioners or heaters ( em and noise).

Make sure you have expandable memory - usually SD cards, or micro SD cards. Hard disks are bulky, and the shock-resistant ones (or don't move at all)...are expensive.
If you control the environment, then you can avoid a lot of trouble and have a fixed-position computer or DVR device with direct power. No worries about extra memory or changes in the environment.

For example only.. this seems to be a pretty good button cam with HD resolution; but the seller has very limited return/refund policies
http://stuntcams.com/shop/button-camera-covert-1280x960-p-202.html

Another interesting set of good-looking spy glasses, but read the review for shortcomings.. and no, the batteries aren't changeable. Either you need to cut and hack a bit to modify the unit making the batteries 'replaceable', or buy multiple devices, one for each 2-hour window.
http://www.technobuffalo.com/2013/04/03/inventio-hd-spy-glasses/

Most places that really do this professionally will put their own gear together, or import it directly from SE Asia. Buying the parts and making it work is a lot cheaper than buying a kit. If you have the know-how, you can also re-use the parts in another form later, and fix anything that goes bad, rather than trashing or returning the whole device.


Is the Panasonic DMC-GF3Kdigital camera?
Q. A good camera for the 4/3 compact digital camera, for casual use or should I consider the Sony NEX-6L/B be a better choice for someone who only takes photos occasionally. an the accessories for a camera such as this, for this type of use, or something better on the market in 2013.

A. It doesn't matter if you takes pictures occasionally or all the time. All cameras have the ability to take good pictures. It's the user's responsibility to make the pictures look good. That depends a lot on his ability.

Both Panasonic and Sony make good cameras. You shouldn't have any problem with any. If you are most concerned about portability, look at the Pentax Q system. It's enough to fit in your hand and still maintain an interchangeable lens system. Pentax, if you're not familiar with it, has very good optical quality.





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Digital Camera for wildlife photography help?

Q. I am planing a couple trips in the next year. First trip is to go up to Alaska or Canada and I want to try and get some nice Polar Bear and Musk Oxen shots. Then I am going to be going out to Yellowstone to try and photograph wolves and finally I will be taking a trip to Australia and New Zealand and am hoping to get some great landscape and animal shots. But now I have to figure out what is going to be the best camera for me to get. I have a budget of around $3500.

Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.

I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.

A. You might get to see these animals, but don't get your hopes up too high. The Nikon D7100 with 18-105mm could be a good choice of camera for most of your shots. A super duper great telephoto to get the kind of shots you are dreaming of will blow your budget. For less ambitious but pretty good shots you could get the Nikon 70-300mm AF-S VR (the good 70-300, not the cheapo). Forget about a 2X teleconverter. The 70-300mm lacks a tripod collar, and it will be front heavy. You will want to bring a tripod. You need to think about what day pack you will carry it in, as the tripod must fit. There are some decent travel tripods. However, the light duty ballhead on some of these may be barely adequate with the 70-300mm. You need to assemble something with a good medium duty 3 way pan head, like maybe the Manfrotto 804RC2 or the Induro PHT2. BTW, if you want to point a panhead higher than about 30 degrees, the trick is to put the quick release plate on backwards.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.


What Canon compact digital camera should I buy -- either A4000 or A2600?
Q. Which should I buy? ...it is between the Canon A4000 IS or A2600?

Technical Benefit Differences of A4000 IS the A2600 lacks I see:
1. More zoom range (8x vs.5x)
2. Optical Image Stabilization/Intelligent Image Stabilization
3. Better Macro Capability (1 cm vs. 3 cm)

Technical Benefit Differences of A2600 the A4000 lacks I see:
1. Longer Battery Life (ECO Mode -- up to 30% more pictures per battery charge)
2. Wider Aperture (f/2.8 vs. f/3.0)
3. Lower Light Exposure Sensitivity in Low Light Mode only (ISO 6400 vs. ISO 1600)
4. Digital Image Stabilization -- Yes, an added feature the A4000 lacks; but greatly inferior to Optical Image Stabilization/Intelligent Image Stabilization

The physical size, dimensions, and weight differences, are very minor to me; both relatively small. Other than these differences above, they are technically the same compact camera. The A2600 is this years (2013) new Canon compact model release -- highest model of the newest of the A-series. The A4000 IS is last years (2012) Canon compact model release -- overall highest still for this years A-series lineup.

This is just an opinion question, but if you could justify your answers as to why YOU would pick one over the other with reason, that would be great! I am stumped. I am torn between these two. Thanks!
Let me add...

If you ask what kind of pictures I generally take, I take all kinds like landscapes, portraits, close-ups, night scenes, action, etc.. Yes, a general use camera.

A. No need to enumerate what you shoot. It is expected for all cameras to do them all anyway.

Judging from those spec differences, I'd go for the A2600. Battery life would be a huge issue and it would be nice to see Canon actually address the shortness of it once and for all. Wider apertures allow for longer shooting pleasure after the sun has gone down. It also helps blur backgrounds more easily for closeup portraits.

Although I personally avoid going higher than ISO 1600, it's good to know there's more in case I really need it. Image stabilization would be great though for making razor sharp shots but it's not really that important as I am confident my hands can still hold on steadily.





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