Q. I'm looking for a digital camera with the following:
* Awesome, detailed shots for both amateur and professional photography use
* Fast, extreme action modes with instant, non-blurry shots (no delay unless optional)
* Full 1080p Quality Video with Excellent Sound and no buzzing/noises
* Great Image Stabilization
* Lovely Zoom with little to no shaking and annoying sounds
* Ability to record beautifully in both low light and very bright settings
* Easiness to learn, maintain, and adjust to
* Durable and lasts for maybe 20 years
A lifetime warranty for a camera product would be nice, but I doubt it exists. I've looked at the newest Canon Rebel (zoom/sound issues), Nikon D7100 (seems too stiff in certain settings), some Panasonic models, etc. I am on a budget and want to record high quality music videos and shorts, and take fancy pictures with the camera I am seeking. I want to spend no more than maybe $650 on my ideal product. What are your suggestions and knowledge of expertise?
* Awesome, detailed shots for both amateur and professional photography use
* Fast, extreme action modes with instant, non-blurry shots (no delay unless optional)
* Full 1080p Quality Video with Excellent Sound and no buzzing/noises
* Great Image Stabilization
* Lovely Zoom with little to no shaking and annoying sounds
* Ability to record beautifully in both low light and very bright settings
* Easiness to learn, maintain, and adjust to
* Durable and lasts for maybe 20 years
A lifetime warranty for a camera product would be nice, but I doubt it exists. I've looked at the newest Canon Rebel (zoom/sound issues), Nikon D7100 (seems too stiff in certain settings), some Panasonic models, etc. I am on a budget and want to record high quality music videos and shorts, and take fancy pictures with the camera I am seeking. I want to spend no more than maybe $650 on my ideal product. What are your suggestions and knowledge of expertise?
A. I have a dream that someday anyone who decides to take up photography as a hobby will first know and understand this: "It isn't the camera its the photographer."
A person with zero knowledge of light, composition and exposure will be unable to use any camera in any mode other than Program or Auto, allowing the camera to determine ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Even then, zero knowledge of just composition will usually produce mere snapshots.
In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really good pictures.
In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really bad pictures.
However, in those 42 years I have used a camera to make some really good pictures and some really bad pictures. The camera is just a tool and gets neither credit nor blame for my results good or bad. That's all on me.
Buy the least expensive DSLR you can find. Read & study the Owner's Manual. Then enroll in photography classes. Take notes. Practice. Make changes to aperture or shutter speed or ISO only when you understand why you're making them and what the results will be.
A 20 year old digital camera will be as useless as a 20 year old computer is today.
In many states a "lifetime" warranty is considered 7 years. Some high-end lenses (translate as a lens costing a few thousand dollars) have a 5 year warranty. Most DSLR bodies have a 1 year warranty.
A person with zero knowledge of light, composition and exposure will be unable to use any camera in any mode other than Program or Auto, allowing the camera to determine ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Even then, zero knowledge of just composition will usually produce mere snapshots.
In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really good pictures.
In 42 years I have never owned a camera that made really bad pictures.
However, in those 42 years I have used a camera to make some really good pictures and some really bad pictures. The camera is just a tool and gets neither credit nor blame for my results good or bad. That's all on me.
Buy the least expensive DSLR you can find. Read & study the Owner's Manual. Then enroll in photography classes. Take notes. Practice. Make changes to aperture or shutter speed or ISO only when you understand why you're making them and what the results will be.
A 20 year old digital camera will be as useless as a 20 year old computer is today.
In many states a "lifetime" warranty is considered 7 years. Some high-end lenses (translate as a lens costing a few thousand dollars) have a 5 year warranty. Most DSLR bodies have a 1 year warranty.
Digital Camera for wildlife photography help?
Q. I am planing a couple trips in the next year. First trip is to go up to Alaska or Canada and I want to try and get some nice Polar Bear and Musk Oxen shots. Then I am going to be going out to Yellowstone to try and photograph wolves and finally I will be taking a trip to Australia and New Zealand and am hoping to get some great landscape and animal shots. But now I have to figure out what is going to be the best camera for me to get. I have a budget of around $3500.
Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.
I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.
Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.
I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.
A. You might get to see these animals, but don't get your hopes up too high. The Nikon D7100 with 18-105mm could be a good choice of camera for most of your shots. A super duper great telephoto to get the kind of shots you are dreaming of will blow your budget. For less ambitious but pretty good shots you could get the Nikon 70-300mm AF-S VR (the good 70-300, not the cheapo). Forget about a 2X teleconverter. The 70-300mm lacks a tripod collar, and it will be front heavy. You will want to bring a tripod. You need to think about what day pack you will carry it in, as the tripod must fit. There are some decent travel tripods. However, the light duty ballhead on some of these may be barely adequate with the 70-300mm. You need to assemble something with a good medium duty 3 way pan head, like maybe the Manfrotto 804RC2 or the Induro PHT2. BTW, if you want to point a panhead higher than about 30 degrees, the trick is to put the quick release plate on backwards.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.
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