Digital Camera for wildlife photography help?

Q. I am planing a couple trips in the next year. First trip is to go up to Alaska or Canada and I want to try and get some nice Polar Bear and Musk Oxen shots. Then I am going to be going out to Yellowstone to try and photograph wolves and finally I will be taking a trip to Australia and New Zealand and am hoping to get some great landscape and animal shots. But now I have to figure out what is going to be the best camera for me to get. I have a budget of around $3500.

Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.

I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.

A. You might get to see these animals, but don't get your hopes up too high. The Nikon D7100 with 18-105mm could be a good choice of camera for most of your shots. A super duper great telephoto to get the kind of shots you are dreaming of will blow your budget. For less ambitious but pretty good shots you could get the Nikon 70-300mm AF-S VR (the good 70-300, not the cheapo). Forget about a 2X teleconverter. The 70-300mm lacks a tripod collar, and it will be front heavy. You will want to bring a tripod. You need to think about what day pack you will carry it in, as the tripod must fit. There are some decent travel tripods. However, the light duty ballhead on some of these may be barely adequate with the 70-300mm. You need to assemble something with a good medium duty 3 way pan head, like maybe the Manfrotto 804RC2 or the Induro PHT2. BTW, if you want to point a panhead higher than about 30 degrees, the trick is to put the quick release plate on backwards.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.

Original Question

Which camera should I buy?

Q. I need a really good camera in april (2013), I'm thinking of buying a nikon 1 J1 but I'm not sure, the nikon 1 J2 is too expensive if you look at the differences with the J1 . Shoul I buy a nikon 1 J1? Or is there a better camera in the market which is cheaper or around the same price? It must be digital and have a (not too) big lens. thanks!

A. Look at the Nikon V1. They are ridiculously low priced right now ($299) while stock is left or until Dec 30. If you wait until April 2013, this deal (and all remaining V1s) will likely be gone.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/823590-REG/Nikon_27504_Nikon_1_V1_Mirrorless.html

The original MSRP of $899 for the V1 was way too overpriced, but at $299, it is very attractive.

The V1 is an upscale version of the J1, and may or may not be to your liking, but at the price they are selling for, it is an easy decision. The main differences are that the V1 has an electronic viewfinder, and lacks an internal flash, when compared to the J1. It is also slightly larger and heavier, as it has a larger battery, giving about 25% more capacity. The V1 also has both electronic and manual shutters, whereas the J1 only has an electronic shutter.

Oddly enough, the V1 is priced about $100 less than the least expensive J1 that I can find, but if you buy the optional flash for the V1, it will be about $30 more than the J1.

Some reviews have the J1 with a slightly better image than the V1. I am highly skeptical about that as they are essentially the same camera; same sensor, and same digital processor, same lenses.

The only thing I can fathom is that the J1 has a different set of presets than the V1 (which is the old Canon trick), and/or not every reviewer necessarily knows what they are doing anyway.

There is one under Awboater's Christmas tree.

Original Question

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Which camera should I buy?

Q. I need a really good camera in april (2013), I'm thinking of buying a nikon 1 J1 but I'm not sure, the nikon 1 J2 is too expensive if you look at the differences with the J1 . Shoul I buy a nikon 1 J1? Or is there a better camera in the market which is cheaper or around the same price? It must be digital and have a (not too) big lens. thanks!

A. Look at the Nikon V1. They are ridiculously low priced right now ($299) while stock is left or until Dec 30. If you wait until April 2013, this deal (and all remaining V1s) will likely be gone.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/823590-REG/Nikon_27504_Nikon_1_V1_Mirrorless.html

The original MSRP of $899 for the V1 was way too overpriced, but at $299, it is very attractive.

The V1 is an upscale version of the J1, and may or may not be to your liking, but at the price they are selling for, it is an easy decision. The main differences are that the V1 has an electronic viewfinder, and lacks an internal flash, when compared to the J1. It is also slightly larger and heavier, as it has a larger battery, giving about 25% more capacity. The V1 also has both electronic and manual shutters, whereas the J1 only has an electronic shutter.

Oddly enough, the V1 is priced about $100 less than the least expensive J1 that I can find, but if you buy the optional flash for the V1, it will be about $30 more than the J1.

Some reviews have the J1 with a slightly better image than the V1. I am highly skeptical about that as they are essentially the same camera; same sensor, and same digital processor, same lenses.

The only thing I can fathom is that the J1 has a different set of presets than the V1 (which is the old Canon trick), and/or not every reviewer necessarily knows what they are doing anyway.

There is one under Awboater's Christmas tree.

Original Question

Good DSLR camera for Europe?

Q. I will be going to Europe (Paris and Spain) for school next spring break in 2013. I want a good quality DSLR camera for the trip and for later use. It will be a present either for graduating or Christmas so I can go up to $900. Anyone know any good ones?

A. I would recommend the Pentax Kr . This camera comes with a 28-to-55mm lens. And a 50-to-200mm lens when sold in kit form. I highly recommend buying the camera "and" 50-200mm lens together. I purchased the previous model (Kx) which came with only the 28-55mm. And I bought an off brand lens 28-200mm, that was a mistake! So if a DSLR is your hearts desire buy it with both lenses together. It will be cheaper in the long run. My first thought with your question, is does this person really need a Digital Single Lens Reflex or is he just responding to the questions on this forum where some of the "die-hard" pro's recommend DSLR's as the only type of camera to own. So with that in mind let me throw out some thoughts for you to ponder.
1. If you want an excellent camera that takes needle sharp photos, there are many "bridge" cameras that take excellent pictures, but have only one zoom lens which does it all, from close-ups to long telephoto shots. It seems to me it would be easier to tote this type than a camera with extra lenses, and accessories. I am referring to a camera like the Canon Powershot series "SX ?? IS. The current one is the SX40 IS, But previous models may be available used at attractive prices, those models are the SX30IS, the SX20IS, and the SX10IS. Remember these cameras cannot change their lens. You have to be satisfied with the lens that comes with the camera.

Good Luck!

Original Question

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Can most digital cameras now all do full hd 1080p video recording?

Q.

A. Most of them do 1080p HD video. However please be aware that most compact cameras, or smart-phones like iPhones, are not good at video recording. If light is good, they do an okay job. When light is dull, they are almost unusable. If you zoom in and do video, there can be lot of shake. You may be better off with iPhone or some digital camcorder that offers 30-40x zoom.

Read this article- it will provide you some relevant info:
http://photography-with-any-camera.blogspot.com/2013/03/video-recording-with-dslr-is-it-worth-it.html

Original Question

Digital Camera for wildlife photography help?

Q. I am planing a couple trips in the next year. First trip is to go up to Alaska or Canada and I want to try and get some nice Polar Bear and Musk Oxen shots. Then I am going to be going out to Yellowstone to try and photograph wolves and finally I will be taking a trip to Australia and New Zealand and am hoping to get some great landscape and animal shots. But now I have to figure out what is going to be the best camera for me to get. I have a budget of around $3500.

Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.

I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.

A. You might get to see these animals, but don't get your hopes up too high. The Nikon D7100 with 18-105mm could be a good choice of camera for most of your shots. A super duper great telephoto to get the kind of shots you are dreaming of will blow your budget. For less ambitious but pretty good shots you could get the Nikon 70-300mm AF-S VR (the good 70-300, not the cheapo). Forget about a 2X teleconverter. The 70-300mm lacks a tripod collar, and it will be front heavy. You will want to bring a tripod. You need to think about what day pack you will carry it in, as the tripod must fit. There are some decent travel tripods. However, the light duty ballhead on some of these may be barely adequate with the 70-300mm. You need to assemble something with a good medium duty 3 way pan head, like maybe the Manfrotto 804RC2 or the Induro PHT2. BTW, if you want to point a panhead higher than about 30 degrees, the trick is to put the quick release plate on backwards.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.

Original Question

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Can most digital cameras now all do full hd 1080p video recording?

Q.

A. Most of them do 1080p HD video. However please be aware that most compact cameras, or smart-phones like iPhones, are not good at video recording. If light is good, they do an okay job. When light is dull, they are almost unusable. If you zoom in and do video, there can be lot of shake. You may be better off with iPhone or some digital camcorder that offers 30-40x zoom.

Read this article- it will provide you some relevant info:
http://photography-with-any-camera.blogspot.com/2013/03/video-recording-with-dslr-is-it-worth-it.html

Original Question

Digital Camera for wildlife photography help?

Q. I am planing a couple trips in the next year. First trip is to go up to Alaska or Canada and I want to try and get some nice Polar Bear and Musk Oxen shots. Then I am going to be going out to Yellowstone to try and photograph wolves and finally I will be taking a trip to Australia and New Zealand and am hoping to get some great landscape and animal shots. But now I have to figure out what is going to be the best camera for me to get. I have a budget of around $3500.

Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.

I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.

A. You might get to see these animals, but don't get your hopes up too high. The Nikon D7100 with 18-105mm could be a good choice of camera for most of your shots. A super duper great telephoto to get the kind of shots you are dreaming of will blow your budget. For less ambitious but pretty good shots you could get the Nikon 70-300mm AF-S VR (the good 70-300, not the cheapo). Forget about a 2X teleconverter. The 70-300mm lacks a tripod collar, and it will be front heavy. You will want to bring a tripod. You need to think about what day pack you will carry it in, as the tripod must fit. There are some decent travel tripods. However, the light duty ballhead on some of these may be barely adequate with the 70-300mm. You need to assemble something with a good medium duty 3 way pan head, like maybe the Manfrotto 804RC2 or the Induro PHT2. BTW, if you want to point a panhead higher than about 30 degrees, the trick is to put the quick release plate on backwards.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.

Original Question

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What's some advice for visiting Fairbanks over Christmas?

Q. I'm from Southern California and I'm visiting Fairbanks this december. What's some advice? How cold is it really? What are some must-see activities?

A. OK this does not have to be a bad idea, shame that some people are so negative about it.
Not everyone hates the cold, and it is actually the extremeness of winter that makes Fairbanks really special for many of us.

Layers are key. Avoid cotton (especially socks) If you are planning on organized outdoor activities many provide a parka and appropriate boots. But you should come with layers that include good long johns, wool or synthetic socks, and a decent pair of boots. A hat, gloves, and neck gator or scarf. Sweater or fleece pullover, and heavy pants. You may be able to use boots you already own inside a pair of insulated Neos (google NEOS overboots). And a heavy parka. If you are here for awhile you can grab one locally. Lots of options for shopping and they will have any gear you may want.

Yes it can be brutally cold. (-40 is not unheard of) But amazingly enough we have this thing called heating, and buildings have it, so you will not be freezing to death. (unless you do something kinda stupid that you are unprepared for) Oh and we also have these neat little vehicles called taxi's and they are warm and driven by people who drive up here all the time. (amazingly enough Fairbanks does not shut down in the cold of winter, we are all pretty used to it by now) *although Thank you is right about driving if you are not used to it, do be careful. And the Pedro monument is excellent for Aurora watching. Things will be lit up for the holidays, and there are usually holiday bazaars, many of which showcase native crafts. But excellent carving and bead wok can also be found in the shops on Second Ave downtown or at the UAF museum.

There is lots to do year round, here is just a taste:
and our local paper will have events listed as well (scroll down to calendar)
http://www.newsminer.com/

Cultural Center & Museum - inside and offer special programs year round, check closer to your visit for current info.
http://www.morristhompsoncenter.org/
http://www.uaf.edu/museum/ - also check the UAF community calendar for other events on campus.

In the winter Chena Hot Springs is super fun, sit outside at sub zero in a natural hot springs (you can freeze your hair into some really cool punk rock styles). They also have other activities, and rent arctic gear to guest for their visit. They are about 50 miles from town (they have a van service) so you could plan to spend a few days there and then the rest of your stay in Fairbanks.
http://www.chenahotsprings.com/

Our local mushing club will be holding sprint races in Dec. (they have a heated clubhouse with viewing if it is too cold outside)
http://www.sleddog.org/races/2012-2013-race-schedule-and-results/

The local chamber of commerce has an events calendar, and the First Friday shows are worth checking out (you can go downtown and easily walk between a number of the galleries and participating business)
http://fairbanksalaska.com/events/first-friday/

And in North Pole they will be having the Winter Carnival and Christmas in Ice, as you might imagine they really go all out for Christmas in North Pole:
http://www.explorefairbanks.com/events

If you do not have people in Fairbanks and are looking for a little more assistance Go North is well respected
http://www.gonorth-alaska.com/index.php?id=243

There are a number of good hotels and B&B's in Fairbanks, many are right downtown if you want to minimize driving or cab fares.

Silver Gulch in Fox is an excellent brew pub, Lemongrass has GREAT Thai food, Turtle Club is known for prime rib, LuLu's is an awesome bakery coffee shop, good food is not hard to find.

FYI, chemical hot hands are your friend, and can be purchased up here. Worth having some even if you don;t need them, because they are cheap and frostbite sucks.
Regular batteries freeze and are useless at sub zero temps, so if you use batteries make sure to get lithium, they handle the cold (although your digital camera might not like it, keep it in an inside pocket till you want to shoot).
And it is nice to have a little LED headlamp, they are cheap and small and a really nice thing to always have on hand. Petzl makes good ones, you don't need the big fancy one, a little $15-20 will work nicely, just use lithium batteries.

Now you do not mention why you are coming or what you want to get out of the vacation, so I can not really be specific. But the point is, do not let other people's negativity stop you from what could be an amazing adventure!!

Original Question

Will me and my brother's desecendants be related?

Q. I somewhat know the answer to this question. If my brother and I have lineages that pass down to our great x5 grandchildren, will they really be related? Not closely of course because you have like 100+ great grandparents. Confusing and complex question, but interesting nonetheless.

A. Yes, they will.

Your children and your brother's children will be first cousins and will share the same grandparents (your parents). They'll most likely know each other, because they'll see each other when you all get together for family gatherings with your parents.

Their children will be second cousins to each other, sharing the same great-grandparents. If their parents (who are first cousins) stay in touch and get together often, they may grow up knowing each other well. If not, they may only see each other once in a while, at family reunions.

Their children will be third cousins to each other. This is where most families lose touch, because their common ancestors (great-great grandparents) are long gone and there's no common link to bring them together. Unless the families all stay in the same location (which is rare these days), most people never meet their 3rd (or 4th or 5th or 6th) cousins, or even know who they are.

But in each generation, there's always at least one person who's interested in the family history. They research their ancestry, maintain the family records, and keep tabs on all their distant cousins. They go online in search of long lost relatives, share information, and sometimes even become good friends. So there's a good chance that 150 years from now, one of your descendants and one of your brother's descendants will be communicating and talking about YOU! You can make it more exciting for them by leaving something interesting to pass down, such as a journal or memoir telling about yourself or your family or what life was like way back in 2013! And don't forget to print out some of the pictures you take on your phone or digital camera. Once the technology changes, all those digital images will disappear. So be sure to save some hard copies so your descendants can enjoy and share them long into the future!

Original Question

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which is the most liked camera in U.S in 2013 and is there camera that prints th photo right away in full size?

Q. thanks.

A. The most popular may not be the same as the most liked.

Many people love their P&S camera or the ones on their cell phones (mobiles)

The most used cameras by professionals are the Nikon D series and Canon 1D series cameras. A smaller number use Hasselblad and Mamiya digital cameras

As far as instant print cameras, they produce much smaller images than what you are calling "full size". The closest to doing that would be the Fujifilm Instax 210. It produces an instant print on film.

* Film size : 108(W) x 86(H) mm
* Picture size : 99(W) x 62(H) mm

Original Question

This may sound like a stupid question, but hear me out?

Q. There are two .jpg images. Each has the precise number of pixels – e.g., the dimensions are the same.

These were images taken by a professional photographer so presumably he had good equipment, lighting, etc.

On was about 500KB, and decent, but a bit blurry. The other was 10 MB and crystal clear. You could see the dew on the blades of grass, the individual strands of the people’s hair, etc.

I know this sounds strange, but given the precise amount of physical information, pixels, were used, where is that additional 9.5 MB coming from and what goes into making it a better image?

BQ: What is primary reason digital images look better in 2013 than 2003 – technology, or was the technology available in 2003, but the data size of the files precluded them from widespread use?
OK. I thought if two images were say, 1000 x 1000 pixels, and if you viewed said image on a 23 inch monitor with 1920 x 1080 resolution, that they would be *exactly* the same physical size on that monitor.

A. It means the .jpg is the same size,"pixels" have different meanings, size and resolution. The computer can make bigger pixles smaller, either to save space or because the camera resolution is to small eg. 2.2 mp or 20 mp. (megapixles) the size of the file is different because there are way more smaller pixles in the one that the other. Therdore higher resolution. The year difference is because the cameras back then only had like , 1 megapixle and now pro cameras have up to 100 megapixles

Original Question

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What's some advice for visiting Fairbanks over Christmas?

Q. I'm from Southern California and I'm visiting Fairbanks this december. What's some advice? How cold is it really? What are some must-see activities?

A. OK this does not have to be a bad idea, shame that some people are so negative about it.
Not everyone hates the cold, and it is actually the extremeness of winter that makes Fairbanks really special for many of us.

Layers are key. Avoid cotton (especially socks) If you are planning on organized outdoor activities many provide a parka and appropriate boots. But you should come with layers that include good long johns, wool or synthetic socks, and a decent pair of boots. A hat, gloves, and neck gator or scarf. Sweater or fleece pullover, and heavy pants. You may be able to use boots you already own inside a pair of insulated Neos (google NEOS overboots). And a heavy parka. If you are here for awhile you can grab one locally. Lots of options for shopping and they will have any gear you may want.

Yes it can be brutally cold. (-40 is not unheard of) But amazingly enough we have this thing called heating, and buildings have it, so you will not be freezing to death. (unless you do something kinda stupid that you are unprepared for) Oh and we also have these neat little vehicles called taxi's and they are warm and driven by people who drive up here all the time. (amazingly enough Fairbanks does not shut down in the cold of winter, we are all pretty used to it by now) *although Thank you is right about driving if you are not used to it, do be careful. And the Pedro monument is excellent for Aurora watching. Things will be lit up for the holidays, and there are usually holiday bazaars, many of which showcase native crafts. But excellent carving and bead wok can also be found in the shops on Second Ave downtown or at the UAF museum.

There is lots to do year round, here is just a taste:
and our local paper will have events listed as well (scroll down to calendar)
http://www.newsminer.com/

Cultural Center & Museum - inside and offer special programs year round, check closer to your visit for current info.
http://www.morristhompsoncenter.org/
http://www.uaf.edu/museum/ - also check the UAF community calendar for other events on campus.

In the winter Chena Hot Springs is super fun, sit outside at sub zero in a natural hot springs (you can freeze your hair into some really cool punk rock styles). They also have other activities, and rent arctic gear to guest for their visit. They are about 50 miles from town (they have a van service) so you could plan to spend a few days there and then the rest of your stay in Fairbanks.
http://www.chenahotsprings.com/

Our local mushing club will be holding sprint races in Dec. (they have a heated clubhouse with viewing if it is too cold outside)
http://www.sleddog.org/races/2012-2013-race-schedule-and-results/

The local chamber of commerce has an events calendar, and the First Friday shows are worth checking out (you can go downtown and easily walk between a number of the galleries and participating business)
http://fairbanksalaska.com/events/first-friday/

And in North Pole they will be having the Winter Carnival and Christmas in Ice, as you might imagine they really go all out for Christmas in North Pole:
http://www.explorefairbanks.com/events

If you do not have people in Fairbanks and are looking for a little more assistance Go North is well respected
http://www.gonorth-alaska.com/index.php?id=243

There are a number of good hotels and B&B's in Fairbanks, many are right downtown if you want to minimize driving or cab fares.

Silver Gulch in Fox is an excellent brew pub, Lemongrass has GREAT Thai food, Turtle Club is known for prime rib, LuLu's is an awesome bakery coffee shop, good food is not hard to find.

FYI, chemical hot hands are your friend, and can be purchased up here. Worth having some even if you don;t need them, because they are cheap and frostbite sucks.
Regular batteries freeze and are useless at sub zero temps, so if you use batteries make sure to get lithium, they handle the cold (although your digital camera might not like it, keep it in an inside pocket till you want to shoot).
And it is nice to have a little LED headlamp, they are cheap and small and a really nice thing to always have on hand. Petzl makes good ones, you don't need the big fancy one, a little $15-20 will work nicely, just use lithium batteries.

Now you do not mention why you are coming or what you want to get out of the vacation, so I can not really be specific. But the point is, do not let other people's negativity stop you from what could be an amazing adventure!!

Original Question

Will me and my brother's desecendants be related?

Q. I somewhat know the answer to this question. If my brother and I have lineages that pass down to our great x5 grandchildren, will they really be related? Not closely of course because you have like 100+ great grandparents. Confusing and complex question, but interesting nonetheless.

A. Yes, they will.

Your children and your brother's children will be first cousins and will share the same grandparents (your parents). They'll most likely know each other, because they'll see each other when you all get together for family gatherings with your parents.

Their children will be second cousins to each other, sharing the same great-grandparents. If their parents (who are first cousins) stay in touch and get together often, they may grow up knowing each other well. If not, they may only see each other once in a while, at family reunions.

Their children will be third cousins to each other. This is where most families lose touch, because their common ancestors (great-great grandparents) are long gone and there's no common link to bring them together. Unless the families all stay in the same location (which is rare these days), most people never meet their 3rd (or 4th or 5th or 6th) cousins, or even know who they are.

But in each generation, there's always at least one person who's interested in the family history. They research their ancestry, maintain the family records, and keep tabs on all their distant cousins. They go online in search of long lost relatives, share information, and sometimes even become good friends. So there's a good chance that 150 years from now, one of your descendants and one of your brother's descendants will be communicating and talking about YOU! You can make it more exciting for them by leaving something interesting to pass down, such as a journal or memoir telling about yourself or your family or what life was like way back in 2013! And don't forget to print out some of the pictures you take on your phone or digital camera. Once the technology changes, all those digital images will disappear. So be sure to save some hard copies so your descendants can enjoy and share them long into the future!

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what is a good websight to learn photography?

Q. I need a bunch of info on cameras and how to use them (Nikon) by May 11, 2013 any help would be great. THANKS

A. Cambridge in Colour is pretty good: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/
Digital Photography School is also good http://digital-photography-school.com/
For info on camera's, brands, specifications etc, and a photography forum try DP Review http://www.dpreview.com

The brand of your camera is irrelevant - all cameras work basically the same. For the specifics of the operation/functions of your particular camera, there's the user manual that came with the camera. Keep it handy with you for reference.

BTW there is no such thing as a "websight". It's a website.

Original Question

What's some advice for visiting Fairbanks over Christmas?

Q. I'm from Southern California and I'm visiting Fairbanks this december. What's some advice? How cold is it really? What are some must-see activities?

A. OK this does not have to be a bad idea, shame that some people are so negative about it.
Not everyone hates the cold, and it is actually the extremeness of winter that makes Fairbanks really special for many of us.

Layers are key. Avoid cotton (especially socks) If you are planning on organized outdoor activities many provide a parka and appropriate boots. But you should come with layers that include good long johns, wool or synthetic socks, and a decent pair of boots. A hat, gloves, and neck gator or scarf. Sweater or fleece pullover, and heavy pants. You may be able to use boots you already own inside a pair of insulated Neos (google NEOS overboots). And a heavy parka. If you are here for awhile you can grab one locally. Lots of options for shopping and they will have any gear you may want.

Yes it can be brutally cold. (-40 is not unheard of) But amazingly enough we have this thing called heating, and buildings have it, so you will not be freezing to death. (unless you do something kinda stupid that you are unprepared for) Oh and we also have these neat little vehicles called taxi's and they are warm and driven by people who drive up here all the time. (amazingly enough Fairbanks does not shut down in the cold of winter, we are all pretty used to it by now) *although Thank you is right about driving if you are not used to it, do be careful. And the Pedro monument is excellent for Aurora watching. Things will be lit up for the holidays, and there are usually holiday bazaars, many of which showcase native crafts. But excellent carving and bead wok can also be found in the shops on Second Ave downtown or at the UAF museum.

There is lots to do year round, here is just a taste:
and our local paper will have events listed as well (scroll down to calendar)
http://www.newsminer.com/

Cultural Center & Museum - inside and offer special programs year round, check closer to your visit for current info.
http://www.morristhompsoncenter.org/
http://www.uaf.edu/museum/ - also check the UAF community calendar for other events on campus.

In the winter Chena Hot Springs is super fun, sit outside at sub zero in a natural hot springs (you can freeze your hair into some really cool punk rock styles). They also have other activities, and rent arctic gear to guest for their visit. They are about 50 miles from town (they have a van service) so you could plan to spend a few days there and then the rest of your stay in Fairbanks.
http://www.chenahotsprings.com/

Our local mushing club will be holding sprint races in Dec. (they have a heated clubhouse with viewing if it is too cold outside)
http://www.sleddog.org/races/2012-2013-race-schedule-and-results/

The local chamber of commerce has an events calendar, and the First Friday shows are worth checking out (you can go downtown and easily walk between a number of the galleries and participating business)
http://fairbanksalaska.com/events/first-friday/

And in North Pole they will be having the Winter Carnival and Christmas in Ice, as you might imagine they really go all out for Christmas in North Pole:
http://www.explorefairbanks.com/events

If you do not have people in Fairbanks and are looking for a little more assistance Go North is well respected
http://www.gonorth-alaska.com/index.php?id=243

There are a number of good hotels and B&B's in Fairbanks, many are right downtown if you want to minimize driving or cab fares.

Silver Gulch in Fox is an excellent brew pub, Lemongrass has GREAT Thai food, Turtle Club is known for prime rib, LuLu's is an awesome bakery coffee shop, good food is not hard to find.

FYI, chemical hot hands are your friend, and can be purchased up here. Worth having some even if you don;t need them, because they are cheap and frostbite sucks.
Regular batteries freeze and are useless at sub zero temps, so if you use batteries make sure to get lithium, they handle the cold (although your digital camera might not like it, keep it in an inside pocket till you want to shoot).
And it is nice to have a little LED headlamp, they are cheap and small and a really nice thing to always have on hand. Petzl makes good ones, you don't need the big fancy one, a little $15-20 will work nicely, just use lithium batteries.

Now you do not mention why you are coming or what you want to get out of the vacation, so I can not really be specific. But the point is, do not let other people's negativity stop you from what could be an amazing adventure!!

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What is the best time of the year in 2013 to buy a digital camera?

Q. I figured before Christmas of 2012 would be a bad time to buy one, but what would be the best time of 2013 to buy one, taking product cycles into consideration? I don't know too much about that, really. Thanks for any input!

A. The best time to buy a camera is now.

If you wait until tomorrow when the prices may have dropped you have wasted another day not having a camera. Because tomorrow arrives and tomorrow they may be cheaper... another day of your life gone.

Original Question

what is a good websight to learn photography?

Q. I need a bunch of info on cameras and how to use them (Nikon) by May 11, 2013 any help would be great. THANKS

A. Cambridge in Colour is pretty good: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/
Digital Photography School is also good http://digital-photography-school.com/
For info on camera's, brands, specifications etc, and a photography forum try DP Review http://www.dpreview.com

The brand of your camera is irrelevant - all cameras work basically the same. For the specifics of the operation/functions of your particular camera, there's the user manual that came with the camera. Keep it handy with you for reference.

BTW there is no such thing as a "websight". It's a website.

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How long before this camera is considered obsolete?

Q. My son is a high school senior. Next year he wants to go to community college and live at home (at least that is reasonably affordable) instead of going away to school. He wants to take an expensive major however. Video production. We have been able to save about $5,000 towards his education. We are not wealthy people. The rest will have to come from loans and maybe a grant or scholarship.
We are looking at some "entry level" pro cameras in the $1500-1800 range. That's about 1/3 of our savings for his education.
Models include these:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/518555-REG/Sony_HVRHD1000U_HVR_HD1000U_Digital_High_Definition.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/745707-REG/Sony_HXR_MC2000U_HXR_MC2000U_Shoulder_Mount_AVCHD.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/878341-REG/Panasonic_hmc40kit_AG_HMC40_AVCCAM_HD_Camcorder.html
and
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/749467-REG/Canon_4922B002_XA10_HD_Professional_Camcorder.html

My concern is he starts September 2013 so these products may not even be available by then or others will be available. We hope he graduates May 2015. He tells us when he graduates he will maybe find a freelance job or shoot local cable news, build up some experience, maybe after 2 years go for a B.A. at least part time.
Is anything we buy him in 2013 (summer) going to be any use to him as a working professional in 2015 (summer)? So let's say you are a class of 2012 graduate with an AAS in video production. The camera you purchased in the summer of 2010 when you first started, do you still use it professionally? Can you make anything doing freelance news videos, PR videos or local account commercials with this equipment?
We're going to do everything we can to help him. No doubt he will still be living at home in the summer of 2015. By then he's going to have a student loan to pay off. We have a 2005 Hyundai Accent that we are going to give him for college. I hope that thing still runs when it is 10 years old and he isn't making car payments on top of that. The thing has 120,000 miles on it but runs really well. I just fear when he graduates he's going to be in deep debt and have limited employment. I may be wrong. What do you think? Thanks.

A. Hi "Upwardly Mobile":

Fellow Contributor "L" covered most of the bases quite well, but the only point he didn't underscore is that MOST good video & film production programs at community colleges HAVE the cameras, lights, mikes, tripods, and other gear that the students will learn on & use.

When I went to a local (but nationally prominent) university with a Broadcast/Film Dept., portable video was still fairly new, but all the film cameras, tripods, & light kits were supplied by the Department for students to "check out" as-needed for class projects.

And most video production students start out with Studio Production techniques (where it's easier for groups to learn 3-point lighting, camera setup & tripod/dolly operation, shot composition, audio techniques & mixing, etc.). No need for portable field gear there.

For field production & Electronic News Gathering, a good college will have a fair number of camcorders for students to use & check out (if needed for outside-of-class projects).

The same is true for Editing Software & computer workstations. Some college programs might be economizing and making students supply their own laptops for this, but all the major software companies offer Academic Editions of their normally-expensive edit suites at discounted prices. And of course, nowadays, apps like iMovie (Mac) and Movie Maker (PC) come "free" as part of the operating system and can accomplish what older (and expensive) software used to do, as far as basic editing.

As "L" mentioned, do a bit of "homework" yourself by contacting the community college's department head & instructors for your son's chosen major. Tour the facilities (studio and edit suites) and ask about the "equipment room" for student project gear. See what textbooks (a major expense) are required, and whether computer/laptop & software expense will be part of what's expected of your son. Only if there's little-or-no camcorder gear (or no hands-on studio cameras) would I recommend buying anything like the models from B+H that you listed.

Almost every cable TV & freelance video job I've had over the past 30 years has "supplied" (rented or company-owned) the cameras & grip gear I needed. I bring my own gear only when it's a "favor" or when what I have is better-suited to the task, or they want a "director with gear". My point being, your son doesn't need to own =any= camera gear to make a living freelancing. A good camera operator can stay busy in almost any part of the country, with just his/her skills. (Same for sound mixers & boom/wireless mike operators.)

hope this helps, and hope it saves you some money,
--Dennis C.
 

Original Question

Can most digital cameras now all do full hd 1080p video recording?

Q.

A. Most of them do 1080p HD video. However please be aware that most compact cameras, or smart-phones like iPhones, are not good at video recording. If light is good, they do an okay job. When light is dull, they are almost unusable. If you zoom in and do video, there can be lot of shake. You may be better off with iPhone or some digital camcorder that offers 30-40x zoom.

Read this article- it will provide you some relevant info:
http://photography-with-any-camera.blogspot.com/2013/03/video-recording-with-dslr-is-it-worth-it.html

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which is the most liked camera in U.S in 2013 and is there camera that prints th photo right away in full size?

Q. thanks.

A. The most popular may not be the same as the most liked.

Many people love their P&S camera or the ones on their cell phones (mobiles)

The most used cameras by professionals are the Nikon D series and Canon 1D series cameras. A smaller number use Hasselblad and Mamiya digital cameras

As far as instant print cameras, they produce much smaller images than what you are calling "full size". The closest to doing that would be the Fujifilm Instax 210. It produces an instant print on film.

* Film size : 108(W) x 86(H) mm
* Picture size : 99(W) x 62(H) mm

Original Question

This may sound like a stupid question, but hear me out?

Q. There are two .jpg images. Each has the precise number of pixels – e.g., the dimensions are the same.

These were images taken by a professional photographer so presumably he had good equipment, lighting, etc.

On was about 500KB, and decent, but a bit blurry. The other was 10 MB and crystal clear. You could see the dew on the blades of grass, the individual strands of the people’s hair, etc.

I know this sounds strange, but given the precise amount of physical information, pixels, were used, where is that additional 9.5 MB coming from and what goes into making it a better image?

BQ: What is primary reason digital images look better in 2013 than 2003 – technology, or was the technology available in 2003, but the data size of the files precluded them from widespread use?
OK. I thought if two images were say, 1000 x 1000 pixels, and if you viewed said image on a 23 inch monitor with 1920 x 1080 resolution, that they would be *exactly* the same physical size on that monitor.

A. It means the .jpg is the same size,"pixels" have different meanings, size and resolution. The computer can make bigger pixles smaller, either to save space or because the camera resolution is to small eg. 2.2 mp or 20 mp. (megapixles) the size of the file is different because there are way more smaller pixles in the one that the other. Therdore higher resolution. The year difference is because the cameras back then only had like , 1 megapixle and now pro cameras have up to 100 megapixles

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