Q. I am planing a couple trips in the next year. First trip is to go up to Alaska or Canada and I want to try and get some nice Polar Bear and Musk Oxen shots. Then I am going to be going out to Yellowstone to try and photograph wolves and finally I will be taking a trip to Australia and New Zealand and am hoping to get some great landscape and animal shots. But now I have to figure out what is going to be the best camera for me to get. I have a budget of around $3500.
Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.
I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.
Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.
I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.
A. You might get to see these animals, but don't get your hopes up too high. The Nikon D7100 with 18-105mm could be a good choice of camera for most of your shots. A super duper great telephoto to get the kind of shots you are dreaming of will blow your budget. For less ambitious but pretty good shots you could get the Nikon 70-300mm AF-S VR (the good 70-300, not the cheapo). Forget about a 2X teleconverter. The 70-300mm lacks a tripod collar, and it will be front heavy. You will want to bring a tripod. You need to think about what day pack you will carry it in, as the tripod must fit. There are some decent travel tripods. However, the light duty ballhead on some of these may be barely adequate with the 70-300mm. You need to assemble something with a good medium duty 3 way pan head, like maybe the Manfrotto 804RC2 or the Induro PHT2. BTW, if you want to point a panhead higher than about 30 degrees, the trick is to put the quick release plate on backwards.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.
camera choice confusion?
Q. Hi. Il just give a brief overview of my issue...
Im aiming to travel next year from London to Auckland (no planes - the long way across europe, asia) and document my trip through photography, im having some confusion between which camera i should buy. Iv narrowed it down to either the Canon D5 mk2 or the Canon D7. I will only be taking the one body but i want to be able to capture all manor of shots but my main interest are landscape and wildlife/action. Iv read quite a few comparisons and am feeling a little overwhelmed. It seems that the two cameras are both suited individually for my needs. What would you recommend? Any advice on which lense i should invest in would also be appreciated. Thanks for your time
How come? I know the MK2 is FF which is better for the landscape but the D7 shoots nearly twice the fps. Could i substitue the FF and use a wide angle lense? Im an amateur hence the lack of knowledge. Thanks
Thought i should also add im about to start a photography course in order to understand the theory. Il have mucho fun putting it all to practise before i start on my journey.
Im aiming to travel next year from London to Auckland (no planes - the long way across europe, asia) and document my trip through photography, im having some confusion between which camera i should buy. Iv narrowed it down to either the Canon D5 mk2 or the Canon D7. I will only be taking the one body but i want to be able to capture all manor of shots but my main interest are landscape and wildlife/action. Iv read quite a few comparisons and am feeling a little overwhelmed. It seems that the two cameras are both suited individually for my needs. What would you recommend? Any advice on which lense i should invest in would also be appreciated. Thanks for your time
How come? I know the MK2 is FF which is better for the landscape but the D7 shoots nearly twice the fps. Could i substitue the FF and use a wide angle lense? Im an amateur hence the lack of knowledge. Thanks
Thought i should also add im about to start a photography course in order to understand the theory. Il have mucho fun putting it all to practise before i start on my journey.
A. Either camera will, in the right hands, produce good results. However, these are rather bulky cameras so you really should visit a camera store and handle both models. Think about carrying either of them for several hours a day.
So I'm going to suggest a different make and model of camera for you to consider - the Sony NEX-5R which has an APS-C sized sensor and is Wi-Fi capable. Here is a review/preview:
http://www.dpreview.com/previews/sony-alpha-nex-5r
At B&H - http://www.bhphotovideo.com - you can find the Sony NEX-5R with an 18-55mm zoom lens for $748.00 or you could buy the body for $598.00 and add the all-rounder 18-200mm zoom for an additional $848.00. A version with a 16-50mm zoom lens will be available on or about Jan. 23, 2013 and is shown for $798.00.
Regardless of what make and model of camera you decide to buy, you're going to have to devote time to read & study the Owner's Manual. You'll also need to learn about the main components of photography - Light, Composition, Exposure and Depth of Field. Contrary to popular belief, simply buying an expensive camera doesn't automatically mean you'll immediately begin making good pictures. Spend time at these sites:
LIGHT
http://photographyknowhow.com/photography-lighting/
http://photographyknowhow.com/quality-of-light-in-photography/
http://photographyknowhow.com/direction-of-light-in-photography/
COMPOSITION
http://www.photographymad.com/pages/view/10-top-photography-composition-rules
EXPOSURE
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography
DEPTH of FIELD
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm
Another, more esoteric component of photography is called Seeing Photographically. This site will help you understand what this is:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/aesthetics-1.shtml
So I'm going to suggest a different make and model of camera for you to consider - the Sony NEX-5R which has an APS-C sized sensor and is Wi-Fi capable. Here is a review/preview:
http://www.dpreview.com/previews/sony-alpha-nex-5r
At B&H - http://www.bhphotovideo.com - you can find the Sony NEX-5R with an 18-55mm zoom lens for $748.00 or you could buy the body for $598.00 and add the all-rounder 18-200mm zoom for an additional $848.00. A version with a 16-50mm zoom lens will be available on or about Jan. 23, 2013 and is shown for $798.00.
Regardless of what make and model of camera you decide to buy, you're going to have to devote time to read & study the Owner's Manual. You'll also need to learn about the main components of photography - Light, Composition, Exposure and Depth of Field. Contrary to popular belief, simply buying an expensive camera doesn't automatically mean you'll immediately begin making good pictures. Spend time at these sites:
LIGHT
http://photographyknowhow.com/photography-lighting/
http://photographyknowhow.com/quality-of-light-in-photography/
http://photographyknowhow.com/direction-of-light-in-photography/
COMPOSITION
http://www.photographymad.com/pages/view/10-top-photography-composition-rules
EXPOSURE
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography
DEPTH of FIELD
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm
Another, more esoteric component of photography is called Seeing Photographically. This site will help you understand what this is:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/aesthetics-1.shtml
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