Q. I am planing a couple trips in the next year. First trip is to go up to Alaska or Canada and I want to try and get some nice Polar Bear and Musk Oxen shots. Then I am going to be going out to Yellowstone to try and photograph wolves and finally I will be taking a trip to Australia and New Zealand and am hoping to get some great landscape and animal shots. But now I have to figure out what is going to be the best camera for me to get. I have a budget of around $3500.
Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.
I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.
Right now I am looking at the Nikon D 7100, Nikon D 7000, Cannon EOS 7 D, and Sony Alpha SLT-A77.
I am also then figureing on getting either a 300mm or 400mm lens then buying a 2X teleconverter. I'm trying to do all this for $3500 or less I know its going to be tough. Obviously I can not afford the real nice lenses in the 300mm zoom so how much is this going to affect my quality if I get a little bit cheaper lens? My goal is I want to have nice enough pictures to where I could blow them up and hang them up around my house with out the image getting grainy or fuzzy. I'm looking at blowing them up to 24 x 36 and maybe bigger for landscape shots.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time.
A. You might get to see these animals, but don't get your hopes up too high. The Nikon D7100 with 18-105mm could be a good choice of camera for most of your shots. A super duper great telephoto to get the kind of shots you are dreaming of will blow your budget. For less ambitious but pretty good shots you could get the Nikon 70-300mm AF-S VR (the good 70-300, not the cheapo). Forget about a 2X teleconverter. The 70-300mm lacks a tripod collar, and it will be front heavy. You will want to bring a tripod. You need to think about what day pack you will carry it in, as the tripod must fit. There are some decent travel tripods. However, the light duty ballhead on some of these may be barely adequate with the 70-300mm. You need to assemble something with a good medium duty 3 way pan head, like maybe the Manfrotto 804RC2 or the Induro PHT2. BTW, if you want to point a panhead higher than about 30 degrees, the trick is to put the quick release plate on backwards.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.
Which brings us to, when do you expect to do this?
Winter, aurora watching?
You will need serious clothes.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife01-30-2013-02-2000.jpg
Carry your camera in a padded case with several handwarmer packs. Have an extra charged battery in your pocket. Two layers of glove liners with handwarmer packs inside can probably give you adequate dexterity without freezing your fingers.
Also have a clean, dry cotton handkerchief in the bag to wipe off condensation.
Getting focused in the dark could be a problem. You might be able to lock on autofocus on a distant street light, and switch to manual. Or you could spend more money on an older style AF-D prime lens like a 20mm or 24mm, and be able to dial to infinity in the dark.
For aurora shots set white balance to daylight. Practice with your equipment at home before you go on your trip. Maybe ISO is 800. More gets noisy. Exposure time maybe 20 seconds. More shows star trails. Also the aurora is dynamic, and more exposure makes it look blob like.
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-01-2000.jpg
http://www.martingrumet.com/yellowknife02-05-2013-02-2000.jpg
About midnight to 2am is often best activity, although not always.
Sony digital camera( DSC-TX30/B)....this camera good or no? please tell........?
Q.
A. Here is a review
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sony-cyber-shot-dsc-tx30
Within the category of immersible compact cameras, its image quality is probably among the best in the studio test, although that is not a category with spectacularly great image quality. In the real world comparison tests it seems to have fallen a bit below the competition.
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/2013-waterproof-roundup/14
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/2013-waterproof-roundup/15
It is the lightest and most compact within that class. However, it is not a very easy camera to handle for actual diving.
With any compact camera you should use a wriststrap, and all the more so when handling these water resistant cameras in the water. with no floatation attached, they will sink.
For diving the Canon D20 has an advantage with the best ergonomics. Image quality is good for its class with least noise reduction smudging or highlight clipping. The Nikon AW110 is a very good overall performer for its class in image quality and has least chromatic aberration. The Olympus TG-2 gains an advantage in low light with its f2 lens. For video with real time sound, its sound gets terrible when immersed in water.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBFwthdyXRQ
The Pentax WG-3 also has an f2 lens, but its images were rather dull in this test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jnxn_Ng-1U8
The Panasonic TS5 seems to produce some nice images, and it has the best video options, but its autofocus is sluggish.
A peculiar thing about the Nikon AW110 is that they package it with a neckstrap and advise against using a neckstrap in the water for safety reasons. An aftermarket wriststrap should be purchased for it.
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sony-cyber-shot-dsc-tx30
Within the category of immersible compact cameras, its image quality is probably among the best in the studio test, although that is not a category with spectacularly great image quality. In the real world comparison tests it seems to have fallen a bit below the competition.
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/2013-waterproof-roundup/14
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/2013-waterproof-roundup/15
It is the lightest and most compact within that class. However, it is not a very easy camera to handle for actual diving.
With any compact camera you should use a wriststrap, and all the more so when handling these water resistant cameras in the water. with no floatation attached, they will sink.
For diving the Canon D20 has an advantage with the best ergonomics. Image quality is good for its class with least noise reduction smudging or highlight clipping. The Nikon AW110 is a very good overall performer for its class in image quality and has least chromatic aberration. The Olympus TG-2 gains an advantage in low light with its f2 lens. For video with real time sound, its sound gets terrible when immersed in water.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBFwthdyXRQ
The Pentax WG-3 also has an f2 lens, but its images were rather dull in this test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jnxn_Ng-1U8
The Panasonic TS5 seems to produce some nice images, and it has the best video options, but its autofocus is sluggish.
A peculiar thing about the Nikon AW110 is that they package it with a neckstrap and advise against using a neckstrap in the water for safety reasons. An aftermarket wriststrap should be purchased for it.
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